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How to Use the Photoshop Magic Wand Tool
Photoshop’s Magic Wand Tool: You’ve definitely heard of it and, depending on how much you use Photoshop in your day-to-day, you may have even used it.

Learn what the Magic Wand Tool is and how to select and mask in Photoshop with it. This Photoshop masking tutorial will turn you into a pro in no time.

The Photoshop Magic Wand Tool is a quick and easy way to select and mask certain portions of an image, giving you the ability to alter one part of your image while leaving other parts intact. One of the most common uses of this tool is to swap out or remove the background of a product photo, leaving the subject of the image in place.

Related: Clipping Path vs. Masking: What’s the Difference?

The Magic Wand Tool works by selecting an area of solid color within an image. Once your selection is made, the Magic Wand Tool gives you multiple options for refining that selection.

The Magic Wand Tool is a go-to tool when you want to display a product in various settings by showing it against different backgrounds, or when you want to remove a background altogether so your product stands on its own.

This is often the case for marketplaces like Amazon or eBay, which have product photo requirements of their own that outline the approved backgrounds your images can have.

Tutorial: Learn how to create a ghost mannequin in Photoshop

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_y3vFhp_Bs

For the following tutorial, we’ll be working with this photo of a soccer player. You’ll learn how to remove the background from the player using the Magic Wand Tool, so that you can later put the player into different scenes. The Magic Wand Tool is a great option for removing backgrounds on photos with a mostly solid background.

Step 1: Unlock the background and select the Magic Wand Tool

Before you can use the Magic Wand Tool, you’ll need to make sure your layers are set up correctly. Go to your Layers panel, located by default in the lower right-hand corner of Photoshop 2024’s application window. If you don’t see the Layers panel, you can bring it forward by choosing Window > Layers from the dropdown menu at the top of the application window.

Within the Layers panel, double click on the Layer entitled Background.

A pop-up window will appear, prompting you to rename the layer “Layer 0.” Click OK.

Within Adobe Photoshop 2024, choose the Magic Wand Tool from the Toolbar. By default, the Toolbar is placed to the left of the application window. The Magic Wand Tool may be hidden behind the Object Selection Tool or Quick Selection Tool.

Note: To select any tool that is hidden “behind” another tool, choose the tool that is in front, and then hold the mouse button until other tools are visible. Then, select the visible tool you need.

Save time and outsource it: Our background removal services start at $0.49/image

Step 2: Select the solid areas of the background using the Magic Wand Tool

There are several different ways to use the Magic Wand Tool to remove a background. We’ll start with the simplest method and work our way to more advanced methods as we refine our selection.

When you click on a portion of your image using the Magic Wand Tool, the tool selects the pixel you selected along with adjacent pixels of the same (or similar) colors.

Once you have the Magic Wand Tool selected, you’ll see several different options in the Options Bar at the top of the screen. You can adjust the Tolerance of the Magic Wand Tool here. The higher the Tolerance, the more similarly colored pixels will be selected alongside the pixel you select with the tool.

For this example, we will keep the Tolerance at 10.

Click somewhere within the background of the image. The Magic Wand Tool will create a selection of all contiguous portions of your image that are roughly the same color as the background portion you selected.

The Magic Wand Tool did a relatively decent job, but there are some portions of the background (such as between the player’s legs and under his right arm” that are not selected.

To select areas of the background that did not get selected, hold down the SHIFT key and click within those areas that need to be selected. Holding SHIFT allows you to add to the existing selection without deselecting anything.

Step 3: Select other portions of the background and foreground

The ground in this photo is not a solid color like the background. It is, however, all varying shades of green. In order to select an area that is all about the same color but has a lot of detail, we need to adjust the Tolerance of the Magic Wand tool to a higher value. In this example, we’ve set the Tolerance to 50 and selected the grassy ground area of the photo.

The results are less than perfect, but if we were to make the Tolerance much higher, we might accidentally select portions of the player’s legs.

To smooth out the selection, choose Select > Modify > Smooth… from the dropdown menu at the top of the application window.

In the Dialog Box that appears, set the smooth value to something large enough to smooth out the edges of the selection but small enough to keep the integrity of the selection’s outline. For this example, we’ll set the value to 5.

Click OK.

The selection now looks almost close to perfect. Almost.

Step 4: Create a mask

Select the inverse of your current selection by choosing Select > Inverse from the dropdown menu or by typing SHIFT + CTRL + I (SHIFT + COMMAND + I on a Mac).

Now, your subject is selected (instead of your background).

Next, go to Select > Modify > Contract… to tighten the edges of the selection. This is to compensate for any artifacts that may have appeared in the selection when we smoothed it earlier.

Click OK.

In your Layers panel, look for the Mask icon at the bottom of the panel. It will look like a black rectangle with a white circle inside of it.

With Layer 0 selected, click on the Mask icon. You will now see your subject isolated against a transparent background.

We’re almost there, but there are a few things we need to fix before we’re done.

Step 5: Clean up the selection using the mask

As advanced as Photoshop 2024 is, nothing can match the human touch for perfecting a selection. In order to finalize your image, you will need to use your Brush Tool, and your judgment, to modify and perfect certain areas of your selection.

In Layer 0 of your Layers Panel, make sure you have the new layer Mask selected. When the Mask is selected, you’ll see a small, black outline around the Mask. Look closely as it’s a little hard to see.

Next, select your Brush Tool from the Toolbar to the left of the application window. In the Options Bar at the top of the application window, you can set the width and hardness of your brush.

If you have correctly selected the Mask icon in Layer 0, then the Foreground and Background colors in your Toolbar will be black and white. When white is the Foreground color, you can “paint back” portions of your masked image. When black is in the Foreground, you remove areas of your selection and they become masked.

For instance, in our example image, certain portions of the player’s sleeves disappeared when we created our initial selection. Therefore, using the Brush Tool, we can “paint back,” or add those portions of the sleeve back in.

Changing the size of the brush and switching between a white foreground and a black foreground, fix any edges of your selection that need finessing.

Other ways to select and mask in Photoshop 2024

Photoshop 2024 also offers another option for Selecting and Masking that may or may not be easier for you. Let’s start with the original image again to learn this second method.

When your Magic Wand Tool is selected, you’ll notice there are some selection options available in the Options Bar at the top of the application window. At the far right of the bar, click Select and Mask….

A new window will open showing most of the image erased. Don’t worry–the image is still there; it’s just been “masked.”

At the top of the screen, click the button that says Select Subject.

Photoshop will attempt to interpret and select the subject of your image. Though, as you can see in the image below, the results are not always perfect.

At the top of the window, you will find Add and Subtract buttons. These work to add to your selection or subtract from it using the modification tools on the left-hand side of the window. You can also control the size of the tool.

On the left side of the window are tools you can use to modify the selection. These tools are rather intuitive to use.

The first tool, the Quick Selection Tool, allows you to grab whole blocks of color at once. This is a good tool to use to “paint back” the ball in the image.

The next tool, Refine Edge Tool, helps when defining or redefining the edge of your selection. Below that is the Brush Tool, which works just like the regular Brush Tool in Photoshop (and like the Eraser Tool when the Subtract button is activated).

The Object Selection Tool tries to figure out where certain objects begin and end in your image, the Lasso Tools allow you to freeform select areas of the image, and the Hand Tool and Zoom Tool help you navigate around the image as you work to refine the selection.

Once you’re satisfied with the selection, click OK. You will see that nothing has changed in your original image, but there’s a “marching ants” selection around your subject.

Next, just like in the first method listed above, you’ll need to make your Background Layer into an unlocked Layer 0, and create a Layer Mask.

Whichever way you choose to create your selection, you now have your subject isolated from its background, and you can place your subject into whichever new setting works best for your branding needs.

Learning how to select and mask in Photoshop with the Magic Wand Tool is helpful because it’s a technique you can apply to a range of photos—sports, product, ecommerce, portraits, headshots, and more. Here are a just a few scenarios where it comes in handy:
- Show your subject in various environments. Help your audience connect with your subject emotionally by seeing it in a beautiful or familiar setting when changing the background. This can also help you prepare the image for different target segments, so you can swap out backgrounds that make more sense for your audience.
- Select your subject so you adjust its size or color without altering the setting in which it has been photographed. This means you can show different color variants for your product without having to take multiple photos.
- Remove the background from a photo so your subject stands out on its own.
- Create a white background image so you can list products on third-party marketplaces, like Amazon or eBay.
Not up for the tedious task yourself? Get a quote for your background removal needs
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23/04/2025
Capturing the Beauty of Everyday Landscapes — Mikko Lagerstedt

Today, I want to share some insights on finding and capturing the hidden beauty in everyday landscapes. In recent years, there has been a trend to seek out and photograph the most spectacular views, often replicating the same composition down to every detail. While these images may be visually stunning, they only sometimes showcase true creativity or originality. I’ve personally done the same, but it’s good to practice finding beauty near where we live. Traveling is always inspiring, but I firmly believe you can see beauty almost everywhere – even in the most mundane places by thinking creatively.

As a landscape photographer, I’ve learned that even the most ordinary places can become breathtaking works of art with the right conditions, approach, and perspective. So, let’s challenge ourselves to break free from the popular trend and explore some tips on capturing the magic in the ordinary!

the Art of Observation

To discover the beauty in overlooked places, you must train yourself to observe your surroundings more intently. Make a conscious effort to notice the details, textures, and colors that make up the world around you. Look for patterns, lines, and shapes you might not have seen before. Developing a keen sense of observation will help you identify the hidden gems in ordinary landscapes.

Become more open and attentive to your environment. Observe how light changes throughout the day and how weather and atmospheric conditions can alter the landscape. By being mindful of these changes, you can uncover unique compositions and captivating scenes in the most unexpected places.

Don’t be afraid to return to the same spot multiple times to capture it under different conditions. Experiment with various lighting, weather, and angles to reveal new aspects of the scene that might have gone unnoticed during your first visit. This approach challenges your creativity and helps you develop a deeper connection with the location.

The story about the photograph Edge.

A place I have visited more than a hundred times. A place where I thought I would never find a new perspective to photograph. However, on this day, I kept my mind open and tried to see if I could capture something unique. As the sun set, I looked for anything that caught my eye. I saw how the thin ice had come to the lake shore, making this beautiful foreground, reminding me of the long winter. While composing the shot, I saw how the treeline created a line between the frame, with the clouds almost perfectly replicating it. I took the photograph and was pleased with how it turned out. It was already quite dark, yet, the horizon was bright. I wanted to emphasize the mood in post-processing and used the EPIC Preset collection to add more contrast and darken the sky with the built-in masks.

Equipment & Camera Settings

Nikon Z7 II, Nikkor Z 14-24 mm f/2.8 S & RRS Tripod and Ballhead
1/6 sec, f/9.0, ISO 64 @ 15.5mm

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23/04/2025
The Long & The Short of It
Among wildlife photographers, it is the long lens that gets all the glory. The bigger the glass, the more serious one is assumed to be about one’s craft. Less a tool than a symbol, sometimes, the bigger telephoto lenses telegraph to the world that we mean business. How I envied those photographers as a younger man, how incredible I imagined their photographs would be. And how disappointed I was when I could finally afford my first big lens, a used Soligor 400/6.3 that—I was shocked to discover at the age of 16—made the animals bigger but did not necessarily make my photographs proportionately better.

Click any of the images in this post to see them much larger (images will open in a new window)

The ability to isolate one’s subject is important; longer lenses are one way to do that. They allow us to get closer (in a manner of speaking) when we might not otherwise be able to do so. Through our photographs, that allows us to show others a perspective or proximity they might never have. And if you’re lucky enough to have a long lens with a wide maximum aperture, you can isolate that subject even more by blurring out distracting backgrounds. More experientially, longer lenses can create a greater sense of intimacy. When you stare down the barrel of a 600mm lens at the magnified face of a leopard, you feel something you might not otherwise ever feel. The connection can feel very real.

But long lenses can also be a bit of a one-trick pony, most especially for the photographer who hasn’t yet learned that filling the frame isn’t the only way to tell a story or convey an emotion.

A portfolio comprised only of centre-punched, fill-the-frame animal portraits may initially feel like eye candy, but on repeated viewings, might also feel like it’s missing some rhythm and variety and begging for some scale and context.

For those who’ve not been subjected to this particular sermon, indulge me with a short detour: there is no such thing as a wildlife lens. And despite the many headlines that assert otherwise in blogs and magazines, there is no such thing as a landscape or portrait lens. There is no ideal focal length for photographs of any genre of photography, and those who tell you otherwise are trying to sell you something, most likely a new lens.

Different focal lengths do different things, and the question when selecting a focal length is not “What are you photographing?” It’s “What do you want it to look like?”

The photographs accompanying this article are among my favourites. They were all made with focal lengths less than 200mm, and most of them could have been made with a 24-105 lens. The widest images allow a greater feeling of depth than a longer lens would have created in the image—a greater sense of place and a feel for the light and the atmospheric mood. This is not necessarily better than what I could have done with a longer lens, but different. And in some cases, that difference means it accomplishes something more powerful.

Don’t get me wrong; I love my long lenses, but I’m just as likely to shoot with a 24-105mm, which you’ll never see on anyone’s “best lenses for wildlife” list.

Here’s what I’m getting at:
1. Don’t let the lack of a big, sexy lens get in the way of your desire to photograph wildlife if that’s what you want to do. We all work with constraints, and one of those will always be the lenses we have available to us and the focal lengths those represent. Work with what you’ve got. And if the choice is to spend $10K on a lens or spend it on a trip and use the lenses you’ve already got, you’re probably better doing the latter. You can go on a safari with a 24-70 and a 70-200 and still make magic.
2. Even if you have the long lens, it’s probably not the best tool for the job 100% of the time. There are incredible photographs to be made that are not just tight portraits. Don’t be afraid to put the long lens down and shoot with something shorter. It’s OK; no one’s looking. We know you mean business and won’t think any less of you. Sometimes a lens is just a lens, you know?
I don’t know where the fetish for long lenses comes from, nor why we value them so highly at the expense of wider lenses, especially when they can be so powerful when used well. Perhaps it’s something the camera companies have instilled in us; Lord knows those long lenses aren’t cheap. Whatever it is, think of them as just one tool among many.

The creative photographer isn’t the one with every tool but the one who uses the tools they have well.

For the Love of the Photograph,
David

The biggest challenges for most photographers are not technical but creative. They are not so much what goes on in the camera but what goes on in the mind of the person wielding it. Light, Space & Time is a book about thinking and feeling your way through making photographs that are not only good, but truly your own. It would make an amazing gift for the photographer in your life, especially if that’s you. Find out more on Amazon.
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23/04/2025
The Importance of a Beginner’s Mind in Photography — Mikko Lagerstedt
As a professional landscape photographer, I’ve had the pleasure of capturing breathtaking images of nature, traveling to some of the most stunning locations, and sharing my passion for the beauty surrounding us. However, my journey didn’t begin overnight. After graduating from a graphic design school in 2008, I decided to immerse myself in the world of photography. When I started, I focused on the technical aspects of photography. I photographed everything and anything. No constraints. I was testing out different settings and following my inspiration.

Over time I realized that maintaining a beginner’s mind is one of the most essential factors in my growth as a photographer. And when I feel uninspired, it’s usually because I get caught up with doing the same things repeatedly. Then I remind myself to start again with a beginner’s mind, following my inspiration. Sometimes I might start it with either a new location or technique.

While researching for this blog post, I came across the concept of “beginner’s mind,” an ancient Buddhist principle known as “Shoshin.” This way of thinking emphasizes the importance of approaching our experiences with an open, curious, and humble mindset, regardless of how advanced we may become in our chosen fields.

In this post, I will share how embracing a beginner’s mind has shaped my photography journey and how it can benefit photographers, artists, and creatives of all levels.

Maintain Curiosity

One core principle of a beginner’s mind is maintaining a sense of curiosity. When I first started photography, I was eager to learn everything I could about the craft. Over time, I’ve found it essential to keep that curiosity alive, continuously exploring new techniques, subjects, and perspectives. This constant drive to learn has allowed me to grow and evolve as a photographer. It has not always been easy. And at times, I have lost that spark or inspiration. But then I know I need to focus on being a beginner again and find that curiosity.
- How can you expand your creative horizons by exploring new subjects or techniques you haven’t tried before?
- What resources or learning opportunities can you seek to deepen your understanding of your craft further?
Embrace the Unknown

Throughout my photography journey, I’ve found that embracing the unknown and stepping out of my comfort zone has led me to some of my most memorable experiences. One story comes to my mind: My initial idea was to capture some seascapes, but on my way to the coast, I saw a massive cloud of smoke. I started driving towards the smoke. Finally, I arrived near a field where I saw prescribed burning. While taking photographs, I saw a man standing amid it all, taking pictures of the area. I took a photo I still can’t believe is a single frame where birds were flying perfectly with the composition I chose.

A beginner’s mind encourages us to take risks and experiment, leading to unexpected discoveries and growth. In those moments of uncertainty, like venturing into unfamiliar locations or trying a new technique, I’ve often found my most creative and unique ideas.
- What fears or hesitations might discourage you from trying something new in your photography or creative work?
- Can you identify a specific project or idea that pushes you outside your comfort zone? How might you approach it?
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23/04/2025
The Best AI Image Editing Tools for Landscape Photographers 2023 — Mikko Lagerstedt
My Workflow & AI

I mostly use Lightroom CC Classic as my daily choice. The AI tools inside Lightroom are powerful, and I often use the masking panel to create selections and fine adjustments. Occasionally, when I need to do some heavy editing, such as removing a difficult part from an image, I turn to Photoshop. The Content-Aware Crop is brilliant for adding more sky to a picture if cropped too tightly. Or, if I need to have more flexibility with layers, Photoshop is an excellent choice.

For experimenting with a photograph or when I feel too comfortable with editing, I use Luminar Neo. I can easily step into a beginner’s mindset while working with it. And finally, my go-to sharpener at the moment is Topaz Labs Sharpen AI, which does an excellent job when I need to add sharpness to my images. Also, GigaPixel AI is fantastic for ensuring my photographs look brilliant when printed.

AI image editing tools can significantly improve your landscape photography editing process. By using Lightroom, Photoshop, Luminar Neo, and Topaz Labs, you can achieve beautiful results and bring your creative vision to life. While these tools are powerful, they may have some flaws, so finding the right balance and workflow that suits your needs is essential. I recommend exploring and incorporating these tools into your workflow to enhance landscape photography.

Unlock Your Creative Potential

As you delve deeper into the world of AI-powered photo editing tools and unleash their potential, consider exploring some of the resources I’ve created to help photographers at all levels improve their skills and find inspiration.
- The Complete Photography Collection. This all-inclusive package features all of my tutorials, presets, and eBooks, offering a comprehensive guide to enhancing your landscape photography and achieving the recognition your photos deserve.
- Epic Preset Collection. Transform your editing process in Lightroom with my presets to help you unlock your creative potential and bring your images to life.
- 1-on-1 Photography Coaching. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced photographer, my new online 1-on-1 coaching service is designed to provide personalized guidance and support to your needs and goals.
- Free Tutorials. For those just starting or looking to expand their skills without breaking the bank, check out my collection of free tutorials covering various aspects of photography and editing.
Remember that AI is a tool; like any tool, it can’t replace the human element in the creative process. Embrace your intuition, emotions, and experiences as a photographer, and let them guide your editing choices. This will help you create images that not only look interesting but also resonate on an emotional level.

Your personal style and artistic voice are what makes your photography unique. While AI tools can help you achieve technical perfection, preserving your creative identity and ensuring that your images reflect your personal touch is essential.

Let me know if you use any of these tools or want to try them out. Thanks for reading!

Disclaimer: I’m an affiliate of some of these programs. Remember that using the affiliate links in this article helps support my work and enables me to continue sharing my experiences and insights with you.
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23/04/2025
The EPIC Preset Collection 2023 Update — Mikko Lagerstedt

Today, I’m thrilled to share the new 2023 update to The EPIC Preset Collection. So, in this article, I’ll be going through The EPIC Preset Collection. With the help of these updated tools, I can make easier selections and enhance my photography adjustments and editing to bring my vision to life easier than before.

If you already have EPIC Presets, you should have received an update in your email.

What is new in the 2023 EPIC Preset Collection?

How can you make the most comprehensive collection even better? By experimentation and with a passion for creating unique tools to help others. I believe the new updates suit perfectly for different styles and give you the tools to turn your images EPIC! Implementing the AI Masks to a collection this complete is the perfect way to make it even better.

If you want to see how it works in real life, check out the video below. Note that these are just quick edits and if you would like to see more edits with The EPIC Preset Collection, let me know!

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23/04/2025
The Art of Night Photography — Mikko Lagerstedt

I hope you are having a wonderful Summer. Even though I love summer, I find it challenging for photography. I have never been a big fan of the midnight sun or bright nights. The mist is something I find inspiring to photograph, yet there are only a handful of mornings when there is some mist in the summer. And as soon as the nights get darker and colder, I find myself inspired to go out and photograph. So for the upcoming dark season, I started writing a comprehensive and inspiration-filled tutorial about night photography. I hope you enjoy it.

As someone who has spent quite a few nights photographing different views, I find night photography fascinating and inspiring. As I was writing this post with the amount of knowledge I’ve gathered, I felt I needed to put this into an eBook, but then I thought to share it on my blog. If you enjoy my posts, you can support me by sharing this article or even buying me a coffee to keep me recharged and continue writing!

At night, our surroundings transform into a different kind of beauty. The sky becomes a vast canvas of stars, the moon casts a gentle glow, and the aurora comes alive in a luminous dance of lights and shadows. These mesmerizing views can be captured, making night photography a captivating genre full of creative opportunities and unique challenges.

The journey to night photography is planning, patience, and learning. It’s also understanding the nuances of light and darkness and mastering the technical aspects of long-exposure photography. The night presents a different kind of quiet and solitude, allowing introspection and creativity.

This tutorial explores my journey in night photography and guides those who wish to venture into this fascinating genre. Check out my Star Photography Masterclass eBook if you want to dive deeper into night photography and editing.

In this tutorial, we go into various parts of night photography, from capturing Milky Way and moon to vertoramas night. I’ll share the techniques, equipment, and settings I’ve found most effective for capturing stunning nighttime images.

Throughout this post, I challenge you to remember that photography is not just about capturing a scene; it’s about conveying a feeling and telling a story through your lens. The night reveals mystery, tranquility, and natural beauty, and I hope my experiences and insights inspire and guide you in creating unique stories under the stars.

Here are a few other night tutorials I’ve written before:

Additionally, I have written the Star Photography Masterclass eBook, which includes more details about my process.

1. The Magic of the Night Sky

It is truly unique how the sky presents remarkable spectacles every night. There is always something captivating to observe, from stars and planets to the moon. Of course, those bloody clouds can block the views, but it’s part of the game.

Sometimes, we are blessed enough to witness extraordinary events like the Northern Lights or meteor showers. Although capturing these breathtaking sights through photography can be rewarding, it takes expertise and a lot of patience.

Planning

Photographing the night sky starts with planning. Unlike other genres of photography, where spontaneity can lead to the best shots, night sky photography demands careful thought and preparation. The key factors to consider include the weather, moon phase, light pollution, and the position of celestial bodies. Clear skies are ideal for capturing stars, while the moon’s phase can significantly affect your scene’s lighting. Light pollution can hinder your ability to capture the fainter stars, so venturing away from city lights is often necessary. Finally, knowing the position of celestial bodies can help you plan your composition. There are various apps available that can help you with these aspects of planning. PhotoPills, TPE and Stellarium, are great tools to use.

Camera Settings

The next step is understanding the crucial camera settings for night sky photography. Night photography is a game of light – or, more accurately, the lack of light. Because of this, you’ll need to adjust your camera settings to capture as much light as possible. This means shooting in Manual mode and understanding the “Exposure Triangle” – the relationship between aperture, shutter speed, and ISO.

Shutter speed is critical in night sky photography. Your aperture should be as comprehensive as possible to allow maximum light into the lens. For most lenses, this will be between f/2.8 and f/4. A common rule for shooting stars without creating star trails is the ‘500 Rule’: Divide 500 by your lens’ focal length to determine the longest exposure time before stars begin to blur due to the Earth’s rotation. However, this rule isn’t infallible and may require some adjustments based on your specific camera and lens combination.

ISO settings can be tricky. A high ISO increases the sensor’s sensitivity to light, which is beneficial in low-light conditions. However, pushing the ISO too high can result in a noisy image. Start with an ISO setting around 1600 – 6400 and adjust based on the results you’re getting. I might go as high as 8000 ISO in complete darkness.

Focus

Focusing at night can be challenging, as autofocus systems often struggle in low light. A common technique is manually focusing on a bright star or distant light. Some photographers use the infinity (∞) symbol on their lens as a starting point, fine-tuning from there.

Try different compositions, play with settings, and, most importantly, take the time to enjoy the process. The night sky is a fascinating subject that rewards patience and curiosity. So, step out into the night, and gaze upwards.

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22/04/2025
The Anisa Foundation Distributes Blankets to 715 Students in Need

Did you know that 5% of every dollar we make goes to funding life-changing support in our home of Gaibandha through the Anisa Foundation? To celebrate Giving Tuesday on December 3, 2024, we decided to donate 50% of sales to our charitable initiatives—specifically for our annual winter blanket campaign.

Although Bangladesh has hot weather for most of the year, the winter season brings significant challenges for two to three months every year. And rural communities get hit the hardest.

Many families in rural areas, especially students, already lack access to basic necessities, and this is only heightened in the winter months when they need blankets and warm clothing. The cold weather makes it challenging for students to stay healthy and focus on their studies.

Plus, government aid often doesn’t reach remote areas like Chandipur Union in Gaibandha, one of the poorest regions in the country.

That’s why, every year, we acquire and distribute blankets to those in need at Chandipur Union.

Here’s what YOU helped us accomplish this year:

Together, you helped us raise more than $3,500 on Giving Tuesday. We purchased blankets and successfully distributed them on January 13, 2025 to 715 students in 14 different residential schools.

Now they can make it through the winter without the added burden of enduring the severe cold. They can stay warm, healthy, and focused on school.

It’s because of your support that we’re able to make a difference in the lives of the people in Gaibanda. Thank you for being part of our extended family.

Find out how you can help us make a difference in the lives of the families in Gaibandha, Bangladesh.

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22/04/2025
Save 50 percent on the LensPen with this early Black Friday deal

Camera cleaning tools may not be very glamorous, but they are necessary. Keeping your equipment clean not only prevents you from having to spend time editing out water spots or smudges that were on your lens, but it can also keep your camera and lenses working better for longer. The LensPen is one of the most versatile and popular lens-cleaning tools around. And while it isn’t expensive when full-priced, it is currently 50 percent off, which is its lowest price ever on Amazon. It’s a great time to pick one (or some) up for yourself, or maybe as stocking stuffers for photographers you know.

LensPen NLP-1 $6.50 (was $12.95)

The LensPen is a very simple tool that could really come in handy on or even in-between shoots. It utilizes a patented carbon cleaning compound on one end, which cleans your lens without any fluids required. The other end features a soft, retractable brush for when you just have some dust that needs to be swept away. It lasts a long time, but at this price, it wouldn’t hurt to pick up a few to keep in different camera bags so that you are never without.

Early Black Friday deals on organization & storage solutions

For most of us (including myself), more than just our camera gear needs to be cleaned. Here are some deals to help you out if cleaning up and organizing your office or equipment storage area is on your list this fall and winter.

Storage bins

Shelving systems

Desk organization

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22/04/2025
Nauticam Releases Housing for the Sony a1 II and a9 III
Perhaps two of the most exciting pro-level cameras on the market at the moment are Sony’s a1 Mark II and a9 Mark III. The a9 III remains the only full-frame mirrorless camera with a global shutter, giving you jaw-dropping specs like blackout-free continuous shooting at 120fps with AF, no-crop 4K/120p video, and the ability to sync with flash at up to 1/80,000s. (The compromise, however, is the sensor’s relative low pixel count of 24.6MP and base ISO of 250. Meanhile, the a1 II is a different, but equally capable, beast: At 50.1MP, its stacked sensor boasts double the pixels, burst shooting is 20fps in lossless RAW, and there’s both 8K/30p and 4K/120p video recording on offer.

The kicker is that these two cameras are all but identical externally, so a single housing can accommodate either one… Enter Nauticam’s NA-α1II housing, designed to get the most out both the a1 II and a9 III. Needless to say, ergonomic control placement is foremost: There’s a dual thumb lever alongside the right hangle and a single thumb lever on the left, as well as another left-hand lever operating a customizable button. In addition to fiber-optic ports for your strobes, there’s an M14 accessory port that could be used for an electrical bulkhead if preferred. There’s also a large-bore M24 accessory port for hooking up a monitor/recorder such as the Atomos Ninja V via HDMI 2.0.

Nauticam’s housing costs $4,920 and is available for from Backscatter now.

When purchasing underwater photography equipment like the products mentioned in this article, please support DPG by supporting our retail partner—Backscatter.com.

PRODUCT INFORMATION

INTRODUCING NA-α1II

The Sony a1 II and a9 III Cameras

The Sony a1 II and a9 III Cameras are Sony’s pro-level bodies that cover the entire gamut of imaging requirements for both still and video shooters.

Sony a1 II

The a1 II is Sony’s flagship high-resolution camera body with incredible autofocus and impressive video capabilities. Built around a 50MP stacked BSI CMOS sensor and powered by the advanced BIONZ XR processor, the a1 II features upgrades pulled from the a7R V in autofocus, subject tracking, and IBIS. For scenarios demanding high resolution paired with ultra-fast and accurate autofocus and up to 8K30p video, the a1 II can deliver top tier results.

Key Sony a1 II Camera Specs
- 50MP Full-Frame Stacked BSI CMOS Sensor
- 8K 30p and 4K 120p Video in 10-Bit
- 8.5-Stop IBIS + Dynamic Stabilization
- 9.44m-Dot EVF with 240 fps Refresh Rate
- Dual CFexpress Type A/SD Card Slots
Sony a9 III

The a9 III fills the role of a high sensitivity sensor with a true global shutter. Capable of shooting 4K 120fps from the full sensor area, the a9 III produces very clean high frame rate video even in less than ideal lighting conditions. The a9 III’s global shutter allows for shooting at incredibly high shutter speeds to maximize available strobe power and recycle time, even in strongly backlit scenes. Shooting into the sun or in high-ambient light scenarios at lower apertures opens up a world of opportunities for both wide and macro photography and also eliminates any rolling shutter effects in video.

Key Sony a9 III Camera Specs
- 24.6MP Full-Frame Global Shutter Sensor
- Flash Sync at up to 1/80,000 Sec.
- 4K 120p 10-bit Video; S-Log3 & S-Cinetone
- 759-Point Phase-Detect AF with Tracking
- 8-Stop 5-Axis In-Body Image Stabilization
- 9.44m-Dot EVF with 240 fps Refresh Rate
- Dual CFexpress Type A/SD Card Slots
Shared Specs

The a1 II and a9 III share a body which makes the NA-a1ii housing possible without any adapters, modifications or loss of features. Both cameras also share the incredible 9.4M-dot electronic viewfinder from the A7RV.

THE NA-α1II HOUSING

The NA-α1II Housing is based on the Nauticam NA-a9III housing and can accommodate both the Sony a1II and a9III camera bodies with no adapters of modifications. This truly makes this housing one of the ultimate underwater imaging tools able to capture high resolution as well as low-light stills and high resolution, low-noise and high-framerate video.

Mission Control

The driving force behind Nauticam housings is to place controls where they should be, within easy reach of the ergonomic handles for an intuitive and smooth underwater filming experience. The NA-α1II features a dual action thumb lever on near the right handle that actuates the ‘AF-ON’ and ‘REC’ buttons. Near the left handle is a thumb lever for ‘PLAYBACK’. The shutter release, main and sub command dials are also all within easy reach without taking your hands off the handles.

Professional Optics

The NA-α1II housing is built around the N100 port opening allowing for a wide variety of optics solutions from extreme wide-angle to super macro. In addition to supporting traditional wide angle dome port and macro flat-port configurations, the NA-α1II can support much of Nauticam’s range of Water Contact Optics from the Fisheye Conversion Port (FCP) to the Extended Macro Wide Lens (EMWL). To truly unlock the creative possibilities of these two cameras, pairing them with either the WACP-1B, WACP-C or WWL-1B gives impressive 130º rectilinear field-of-view, ~0″ minimum focus distance, full zoom through capabilities and the incredible corner sharpness. If more coverage is needed, the FCP provides 170º fisheye coverage with full zoom through and close focus capabilities. Take your macro imaging to the next level with either increased 2.3X magnification with the new SMC-3 close-up lens or the wide-angle macro look of the EMWL 160º lens.

EVF Enhancement

Both the Sony α1II and α9 III feature the same ultra-high resolution 9.4M-dot electronic viewfinder (EVF). To truly take full advantage of this underwater consider pairing it with one of the Nauticam Enhanced 0.8:1 Viewfinders. These underwater viewfinders are designed to give full edge-to-edge magnified viewing and include a diopter that can be adjusted underwater to match your vision.

HDMI 2.0

A large bore M24 bulkhead is located at the front of the housing for use with HDMI 2.0 or HDMI 1.4 (with a step-down adapter to M16) external monitors and recorders. An additional M10 threaded mounting position near the front center of the housing also makes using an external monitor even easier.

Vacuum Check and Leak Detection

The housing comes with electronics pre-installed for Nauticam’s Vacuum Check and Leak Detection system, requiring only the optional M14 Vacuum Valve (25624). This monitoring system provides constant updates on the water tight and safe-to-dive status of the housing. A simple color coded LED lighting system lets the user know that the vacuum is solid, or that the housing is losing vacuum. Leak detection is built into the same circuit, so if there is water intrusion, an audible and visual indication will occur. The Nauticam system is temperature compensated, eliminating false alarms caused by a change in outside temperature, or from a camera heating up on an action packed dive.

Strobe Triggering

Triggering of external strobes is accomplished via the integrated fiber-optic bulkheads when using the optional Mini Flash Trigger for Sony (26302). Electronic triggering is also available via an optional Nikonos or Ikelite Style Bulkhead.

What’s In The Box:
- NA-α1II Housing
- 90120 Spare Main O-ring, o-ring remover, and lubricant
- CR-2032 Battery (for Moisture Alarm)
- Set of Allen Keys
- Instruction Manual Card
- 2x Optical Bulkhead Caps
- 2x Handles with Mounting Balls
- Padded Housing bag and shoulder strap
Recommended Accessories:
- 25624 M14 Vacuum Valve II (Pushbutton Release)
- 26302 Mini flash trigger for Sony
- 25218 Mounting Ball Set for tripod
- 28130 Hand Strap for 18223
- 32203 45 viewfinder (slightly vignettes)
- 32211 Nauticam Full Frame Straight Viewfinder 32 / 1:1
- 32212 Nauticam Full Frame Straight Viewfinder 40 / 0.8:1
- 32213 Nauticam Full Frame Angle Viewfinder 32 / 1:1
- 32214 Nauticam Full Frame Angle Viewfinder 40 / 0.8:1 *32212 / 32214 is preferred
- 26325 USB-C Bulkhead with USB-C Connector
- 26326 M24-M16 Adaptor for use with 26325
- 25413 27cm lanyard with 2 snap hooks
HDMI Output:

Required accessories for HDMI 2.0 Cable System
- 25086 M24 Adaptor for HDMI 2.0 Cable (incl. tightening tool)
- 25099 M24A2R20-M28A1R170 HDMI 2.0 Cable
Compatible Monitor Options:
- 17922 Nauticam Atomos Ninja V Housing for Atomos Ninja V 5” 4kp60 4:2:2 10-bit recorder/monitor/player (excl. HDMI 2.0 Cable
- 17922S Nauticam Atomos Ninja V-S Housing for Atomos Ninja V 5” 4kp60 4:2:2 10-bit recorder/monitor/player (excl. HDMI 2.0 Cable) with AtomX SDI Module
Required accessories for HDMI 1.4 Cable System:
- 26326 M24-M16 Adaptor
- 25100 HDMI )D-A) 1.4 Cable in 200mm length (for connection from HDMI bulkhead to camera)
- 25033 standard HDMI bulkhead with M16 thread (incl in 17923 Shinobi-H housing)
Compatible Monitor Options:
- 17923 NA-Shinobi-H Housing for Atomos Shinobi 5.2” 4k HDMI Monitor with HDMI 1.4 input.
- 17922 Nauticam Atomos Ninja V Housing for Atomos Ninja V 5” 4kp60 4:2:2 10-bit recorder/monitor/player (excl. HDMI 2.0 Cable
- 25082 HDMI 1.4 Canle for Ninja V housing in 0.75m length (for connection for Ninja V housing to bulkhead) *25082 v1.4 cable is required for use with 17922 monitor housing.
Technical Specifications
- Dimensions: 347mm(W) x 171mm(H) x 127mm(D)
- Weight in Air: 2.65kg
- Buoyancy in Water: 0.48kg (incl. camera & battery)
Model Number: 17438

USA Retail Price: $4,920.00

More information is available from Nauticam at: www.nauticam.com
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22/04/2025