The reality of the world is that images are almost always cropped from what they were in camera no matter how we share them. This is largely due to the constraints of mobile phones where wide aspect ratio images can be hard to view on phones when the phone is held in portrait mode.
The weird thing is that every website or app is a little bit different. Some sites force your images into their own highly restricted crop such as Instagram, and some sites like Flickr don’t care what crop is used. The main concern for using either of those services is how people are most likely to view your images which as far as I know is still a mobile device.
To help photographers deal with this, did you knot that most (if not all) full frame 35mm digital cameras have built in “crop modes” which apply a digital crop to your image in camera?
For example, my camera will shoot in 4 different crop modes (also called aspect ratios). It will shoot in a 4:3 aspect ratio which is the old TV standard for HD television. It will shoot in 1:1 format which is a square format used as we all know on Instagram. It will shoot in 16:9 which is the modern standard for television screens, computer monitors, and many TV shows. Take a look at the comparisons below to get more of an idea of how these different formats relate to each other.
When using these alternate aspect ratios the RAW image remains unaffected. After opening the RAW files in Lightroom a crop will be automatically applied to the image but you can just remove the crop and voila, you’re back to having a full frame image again. If shooting JPG the final image is cropped and the 35mm full frame image can’t be recovered.
Since the RAW file retains the 35mm full frame image a different aspect ratio can be used as a bit of a cheat to help avoid framing mistakes. Say you’re the type who tends to shoot with a tilt or off to the right all the time, or maybe you tend to shoot with the subject low or high and cut off people’s feet. If you’re one of those types then using one of these alternate aspect ratios can force you to frame your images better.
For instance, if you want to make sure you always have room on the sides of your images, you can use the 4:3 crop to force yourself to frame a little wider on your subject. This might be especially useful if you’re shooting fast action such as sports and you want to make sure that there is room in the image to get a nice frame around your subject for publication.
For instance, if I was shooting baseball or basketball where there is usually a focus on what a single player is doing, I might choose to shoot in RAW with the 1:1 crop active. This would force me to put the player close to the center of the frame at all times.
Think of it as a way of making a repetive job a little easier on yourself and you might start to see the benefits of using different crop ratios when you’re taking pictures.
It would be really cool if the camera allowed me to create a couple custom crop ratios for all the different websites out there as well, but, I haven’t heard of a camera that can do that yet.
The R5 can also shoot with a full APS-C crop. Below is a comparison of the full frame area vs the APS-C area.
If you’re far away from the subject, say a bird or other kind of wildlife, then shooting with an APS-C crop not only saves some file size but it can help the photographer get better framing for their final images. It also allows the R5 to work a little more seamlessly with other APS-C cameras if other people happen to be using those.
Despite all this, many if not most photographers will immediately ask why anyone would throw out all those pixels that they paid so much money for in a full frame camera. Well, they honestly have a good point and it’s why I rarely to never use APS-C crop on my camera. For one, while the APS-C crop does offer some logic, it’s really better to use a longer focal length to achieve precise framing. On the R5 a full APS-C crop is still 17.2 megapixels which isn’t too far off from actual crop sensor cameras that are often around 24 megapixels. But it is a far cry from the 45 megapixels of the R5’s full frame sensor. Bottom line: going to APS-C on the R5 throws out more than half the resolution and that would be true with any FF camera that offers the ability to shoot in crop mode.
DJI has been one of the leading manufacturers for high quality drones and they have constantly been innovative and bringing drones into the market that suits every photographer’s needs. Their drones range from beginner’s to professional models and the technologies, hardware used are constantly improved with each new model.
While a lot of drone professionals have been waiting for this new drone that has been rumoured about, DJI released a new teaser on its channels, which is a very short video clip titled “Spin Your World.” It looks like the drone’s gimbal is capable of rotating, which means it will be a great feature for filmmakers and content creators to capture dramatic aerial footage.
The video released by DJI shows how the drone is capable of capturing more dynamic videos using unique perspectives. The footage on DJI’s social media like X and YouTube, also shows a three camera system which is spherical with “Hasselblad” written on top. The spherical system may allow for more flexibility for the cameras to move sideways, up and down and may come with advanced stabilization features.
A lot of rumoured information have been flooding online sites and forums about the new drone and its specifications. Followers on social media and especially drone enthusiasts, seem to be very excited about this new technology and predict this drone could be a Mavic 4 Pro following DJI’s Mavic 3 series.
The new drone seems to have a compact foldable design like its predecessors and may be weighing less than a kilogram. This also means that the drone pilot will need a license to fly the drone in most countries. The product is expected to be launched next week on the 13th of May.
We have more news for you to read if you are interested at this link here.
Getting the hang of using a camera and photo editing is one thing, but directing subjects? Now, that’s hard! Even pro photographers can struggle with an awkward or camera-shy person in front of their lens.
How can you guide your subjects so your portrait shoots are consistent in quality, there are fewer retakes, and the result looks great? It’s a mix of technical shooting and composition skills, with plenty of soft skills, like getting your subjects to relax and smile.
Want your next portrait shoot to be a success? Check out some practical tips for how to pose any subject—from corporate execs to creative professionals and family groups.
Prepare for a successful portrait shoot
The secret to great portrait poses actually starts before your subject arrives. Here’s what experienced photographers do to prepare:
Set clear expectations
Help your clients arrive confident and prepared by sending them key information ahead of time:
Explain the location and background setup: indoor/outdoor, how many outfits to bring
Give grooming tips: classic styling usually photographs best—and a fresh shave won’t hurt!
Outline the session timeline: how long it will take, how many looks you’ll capture
Send examples of poses you’ll try: helps them visualize the result
To speed this up, you can create a standard pre-shoot guide you can quickly customize for each client. Use apps like Canva or Adobe Express and export the guide as a PDF or create a shareable link.
Build trust and rapport
Most people aren’t naturally comfortable in front of a camera. Posing for headshots can be stressful even for the most successful business people, so your first job is to make them feel at ease. Try these quick tips:
Start with a quick chat about what to expect and what you’ll shoot first
Demonstrate poses yourself—it’s easier than explaining and helps break the ice
Pay attention to what works for each person—a pose that looks great on one subject might feel awkward for another, so stay flexible
The same goes for instructions in general—some people need more guidance than others
Keep the conversation natural while you work, but keep your directions simple
Give positive feedback when you capture great shots, and if something’s not working, smoothly guide them into a different pose instead of pointing out problems
Main posing frameworks for any portrait shoot
Let’s break down some of the best poses for professional headshots and relaxed portraits that consistently deliver great results and let your subjects shine.
Standing poses
Standing poses are a great choice for both corporate headshots and casual portraits. They offer plenty of ways to help subjects feel comfortable—from leaning against the wall to interacting with the surroundings. Standing shots also work anywhere—in a studio, office, or outdoors—and you can repurpose them to crop in for tighter headshots or waist-up portraits.
Here’s how to pose for standing shots:
Turn feet about 45 degrees from the camera—this creates a naturally slimming angle
Have subjects shift weight to one leg—usually the front one—to avoid looking stiff
Ask them to lean forward slightly from the hips, with just an inch or two being enough
Change arm positions between shots—relaxed at sides, hands in pockets, or arms crossed
Remember “if it bends, bend it slightly” for natural-looking poses
Keep shoulders relaxed and dropped because tension shows in photos
Ask the subject to change the direction of their gaze slowly from one side to the other to get a wide range of angles
For corporate shots:
Keep poses clean and professional
Arms relaxed at sides or one hand in pocket
Subtle lean forward to engage with the camera
Maintain a straight posture while avoiding stiffness
For tight headshots, still keep the body slightly angled, like on Treeconomy’s team page
For personal branding:
Allow more dynamic movement
Try casual leans against walls or furniture
Experiment with crossed arms or hands on hips
Include interaction with the environment (desk, tools of trade, products), like Liz, owner of Wild Pines, an arts and crafts store
Allow space for naturally big smiles and laughter, too—it’ll create warm and welcoming portraits, like on Sojo’s company page
Flattering seated poses
Seated portraits can create a variety of engaging shots. Just because your subject is sitting doesn’t mean options are limited—it’s all about working with posture and leg positioning to create natural, dynamic results.
Key principles for seated portraits include:
Guide subjects to sit at the edge of their chair or sofa instead of slumping back
Avoid letting subjects sink into soft furniture (like in the example below of Noura Sakkijha, CEO of Mejuri)
Keep the core engaged for good posture
Point toes in the same direction to elongate legs
Professional settings:
Position at a desk with a slight forward lean
Hands clasped or resting naturally—play around with a variety of hand positions to find a flattering pose for your subject
Encourage subjects to engage with what’s on their desk, such as their laptop or notebook
Cross ankles rather than legs for a polished look
Keep shoulders level and relaxed
Walk around the subject to capture different angles—from camera-facing to slightly angled to full-on side profile
Casual settings:
Allow more relaxed postures while maintaining good form
Create asymmetry by shifting weight to one hip
Use arms for support when sitting on floors
Avoid both legs pointing directly at the camera—instead, either extend one leg towards the camera or angle them both slightly away from the camera
Creating dynamic duo shots:
Use seating to create interesting height variations
Try one person seated while the other stands
For co-founder shots, have one person sit in a chair while the other perches or leans on the armrest, like in the example below of ettitude’s co-founders
Vary the height of chairs or use different seating positions to add visual interest
Keep subjects at different heights but maintain connection through body language or eye contact
Relaxed group portraits
Whether you’re photographing a corporate team or a family, group photos present unique challenges.
Basic principles for group shots:
Create depth by avoiding straight lines of people—unless you’re shooting a sports team photo that traditionally requires one or two straight lines of players
Stagger heights naturally using stairs, chairs, or standing/sitting combinations
Keep heads at different levels but close enough to feel connected
Position taller people towards the back or center
Arrange people in a slight arc to ensure everyone’s visible, like in Ora’s team photo below with the two people on both sides slightly turned inward
For large team shots, shooting from an elevated position, such as another floor, can help include everyone, but you could also use a drone
Shoot more photos than you think you’ll need—there’ll always be someone blinking so it’s best to have more images to pick from
For professional teams:
Keep poses consistent but not identical
Use the rule of thirds to arrange larger groups
Break bigger teams into smaller clusters
Maintain equal spacing between subjects
Ensure everyone’s shoulders are angled slightly rather than square to the camera—or, if facing the camera directly, ask the subject to shift weight from one leg to the other
For family portrait poses:
Create natural connections through gentle touching (hand on shoulder, arms linked)
Position children in front or held by parents
Use props or furniture to create natural groupings
Let small kids move around and play between shots to stay engaged
Capture both formal and candid interactions—experiment with both seated and standing poses
Switch between some or all subjects looking at the camera to fully candid shots
Common posing challenges and tips to solve them
Even experienced photographers run into tricky posing situations. Maybe you’ve got a group with significant height differences, someone nervous about being photographed, or the shoot ran late so now you’re rushing to cover all your bases. So, what are some common challenges you might run into?
Height differences
If you have subjects with drastically different heights, it can make for an awkward portrait. Position taller people slightly behind or sitting. Seated poses work the best to tackle this, but that doesn’t mean you should avoid standing poses altogether. You can use elements like stairs or slopes to minimize extreme height gaps.
You can also create diagonal arrangements instead of straight lines. Avoid placing the tallest and shortest people next to each other—unless they’re standing behind each other.
Confidence issues
If your subjects are camera-shy, start with simple poses to build trust. Give specific compliments about what’s working well, and show them the preview shots when you capture something great.
It’s a good idea to have a few go-to safety poses that work for most people. Some might also feel more relaxed if there’s music playing in the background, especially if you’re shooting in a studio.
Your own confidence and body language as the photographer make a difference too—stay positive or even a little goofy if appropriate. Make sure to edit your portraits and headshots to show your subjects in the most flattering way while keeping their appearance natural
Photographing glasses and reflections
If shooting something reflective in the frame, slightly tilt the head down to avoid glare. You can also ask subjects to push their glasses slightly up their nose. Position lights at angles that don’t create reflections. If the reflection doesn’t cover the subject’s eye in full, you can always fix it with retouching.
Rushing through poses
Prepare a shot list ready but be flexible—you can have the shot list on your phone or even photograph it so you can flick through your camera during the shoot without stopping the session.
Start with your most reliable poses first. Give clear, concise directions, and keep subjects engaged by showing progress.
Are you ready to direct your next portrait shoot?
Working with people can be unpredictable because everyone’s unique—but that’s exactly what makes portrait photography so rewarding. The trick is to adapt your approach for each subject while keeping your photo quality consistent. With these posing guidelines, you’ll be better equipped to direct any portrait session confidently, from corporate headshots to family gatherings.
And if you need help getting those portraits polished and ready to share, our team of expert editors at Path can handle the retouching while you focus on capturing more great shots.
Polish up your portraits with pro retouching from 79¢ per image
Portrait poses FAQs
How do you pose for a professional headshot?
Start by turning your body 45 degrees from the camera, then face back toward it. If you’re standing, shift your weight to your front leg, keep your shoulders relaxed, and lean forward slightly from the hips. Small adjustments make a big difference—change arm positions between shots and keep movements subtle. Allow yourself to smile and laugh, too!
How do you look professional in a headshot?
Maintain good posture without looking stiff
Keep shoulders back but relaxed
Sit at the edge of your chair for seated shots
Cross ankles instead of legs
Let hands rest naturally
What are the best poses for group photos?
Avoid straight lines of people. Instead, create depth by staggering heights using stairs or chairs, and arrange people in a slight arc. For professional teams, keep poses consistent but not identical. With families, encourage natural connections through gentle touching like hands on shoulders.
What are common mistakes to avoid when posing subjects?
Common portrait mistakes include forcing unnatural smiles, rushing through poses without direction, and not adapting poses to fit different subjects. Stay engaged with your subject throughout by having a conversation and provide positive feedback. If something doesn’t work, simply switch to the next pose.
How to pose different body types?
Work with your subject’s natural body language instead of forcing uncomfortable poses. The 45-degree angle works well for most people, as does shifting weight to one leg. For seated poses:
Focus on good posture
Create asymmetry through slight head tilts
Adjust your camera position rather than making subjects twist
Make sure subjects feel confident in their pose
Don’t let the subject sink back into a soft chair or sofa
How do you pose someone who is camera shy?
Start with simple poses and build trust gradually. Show them preview shots when you capture something great, keep the conversation going, and guide them into different poses smoothly. Playing background music can help relax in studio settings.
This is how you can achieve goals and track them in your journal. Write down each of these and be as thorough as you can.
Specific Goal What do you want to improve? “I want to improve my Lightroom Color editing.”
Specific Action What are your action steps? “Use the HSL panel in Lightroom and watch tutorials on how to use it.”
Timeframe How many hours does it take? “I will spend 1 hour per day editing in the HSL panel to improve my color editing.”
Track your Actions How many hours have you spent this week? “I have spent learning 2 hours this week using the HSL Panel?”
Results Write down what you learned. Be specific and acknowledge your improvement. “I understand the HSL panel easily and can identify how to improve the colors in my photography.”
I believe these steps will help you improve your photography and make you continue to enjoy taking photographs.
5. Goal ideas for Your Photography
When you set inspiring goals, it’s easy to feel inspired to start creating and have fun in the process. Let your creativity flow and create what you desire!
Practice shooting in different lighting conditions, such as sunrise or sunset, to improve your skills in capturing the golden hour
Experiment with using filters, such as polarizers or neutral density filters, to enhance the colors and contrast in your photos
Work on composing your shots more effectively by learning about the rule of thirds or practicing leading lines
Practice shooting in different weather conditions, such as fog or rain, to capture unique and atmospheric images
Learn how to use a tripod effectively to capture sharp, blur-free photos, especially in low light
Experiment with different focal lengths and perspectives to create different effects in your photos
Practice shooting in manual mode to have more control over your camera settings and to create the desired exposure and depth of field in your photos
Experiment with different types of lenses or camera settings to create other effects in your photos
Shoot in a new location or visit a new destination specifically to photograph landscapes
Work on improving your post-processing skills, such as using software to enhance colors and composition
Collaborate with other photographers or participate in a photography workshop or retreat
Work on developing a personal style or theme in your landscape photography
Explore new local locations. Many beautiful locations are likely near your home, even if you cannot travel far. Aim to explore these new locations and try out different compositions, lighting conditions, and subject matter.
It’s natural for us, as photographers and creatives, to lose our inspiration. While taking a break can initially be a great way to get your inspiration back, it can also harm your inspiration. Procrastination will sometimes sneak in when you are too comfortable.
It can be easy to fall into a creative rut and feel like you need more ideas. I certainly have been there. However, finding new sources of inspiration is an essential part of any creative process, and there are many ways you can do this. In this article, I share a toolkit of ten tips for finding sources of inspiration.
If you haven’t read my earlier posts about inspiration, here you can find them below.
Take your camera with you wherever you go, and be open to capturing unexpected moments and subjects. Visit new locations and try shooting at different times of day to see how the light and atmosphere changes. Explore new neighborhoods, towns, or even countries – sometimes, the most unexpected locations can yield the most inspiring photographs.
2. Try new techniques or subjects
Consider trying new editing techniques or using different lenses or cameras to change the look and feel of your images. Try shooting in black and white, trying long exposures, or experimenting with different compositions. The more you experiment, the more you’ll learn about what works for you and what doesn’t, and the more you’ll be able to develop your own style.
3. Get out of your comfort zone
Stepping outside your usual routine and trying something new can be a great source of inspiration, such as taking up a new hobby or visiting a new location. Taking a break from your routine can help you see things in a new light and spark new ideas.
4. Find new subjects
Keep your eyes open for inspiring subjects and moments in your everyday life. By staying attuned to your surroundings, you’ll be more likely to spot unexpected moments and topics that can inspire your photography. It could be a beautiful sunset, a stunning landscape, or an interesting street scene.
5. Journal
Consider keeping a journal of your photography ideas and inspiration; this can be a great way to keep track of your ideas and revisit them later. Having a place to capture your thoughts can help you stay organized and keep your creativity flowing. You could include sketches, notes, or even photographs that inspire you.
6. Seek inspiration elsewhere
Photography is just one art form, and many other art forms can inspire. Consider looking at paintings, sculptures, or even music for inspiration. Pay attention to the colors, compositions, and themes in these art forms, and think about how you could apply these ideas to your photography. For example, you might look at a painting with a strong color palette and try to recreate that same palette in your photographs. Or, you might be inspired by a sculpture’s texture and try incorporating texture into your compositions.
7. Open your Mind
Keep your eyes open for inspiration in the world around you. It could be the changing seasons, a city’s architecture, or the natural landscape’s beauty. Look for patterns, textures, and colors that catch your eye, and think about how you could capture these elements in your photographs.
8. Plan a trip
Planning a trip specifically for photography can be a great way to step outside your surroundings and find new sources of inspiration. Consider researching locations known for their photographic potentials, such as national parks, historic cities, or natural wonders. Look for places that offer a variety of landscapes and lighting conditions, as this will allow you to experiment with different techniques and subjects. Wander from the beaten path and explore off-the-beaten-track locations – sometimes, the most unexpected places can yield the most inspiring photographs.
9. Collaborate with others
Collaborating with other photographers on a project or photo shoot can be a great way to learn from others and find new sources of inspiration. Working with others can help you see things in a new light and inspire you to try new approaches to your photography. Consider reaching out to photographers whose work you admire and see if they would be interested in collaborating on a project. Alternatively, you could join a local photography group or participate in online forums or communities where you can connect with other photographers and discuss ideas and techniques.
10. Seek new experiences
One of the best ways to find new sources of inspiration is to seek new experiences. It could be trying new hobbies, traveling to new locations, or simply trying something new in your everyday life. By stepping outside your comfort zone and trying new things, you’ll be more likely to find new subjects and experiences that inspire your photography. For example, if you’re a landscape photographer, consider trying a new type of photography, such as portrait or still-life photography. It can help you see things in a new light and find new ways to approach your landscape photography.
An additional source for inspiration: Create a theme or a goal. Consider setting yourself a personal photography project with a specific theme or goal. This could be a project where you photograph a particular location over the course of a year or a project where you focus on a specific type of landscape or subject. Having a specific project to work on can help you stay motivated and focused and can also provide new sources of inspiration.
As a photographer, I have discovered that starting a project can help me channel my creativity and bring new dimensions to my work. A project can be a way to explore new techniques, themes, and perspectives, leading to personal and artistic growth. Currently, I am working on a new photography series that will challenge me to think more deeply about my craft and explore new horizons. While I cannot reveal my project, I encourage you to consider the benefits of taking on your own photography project.
A project can provide purpose and direction to your photography work. It can help you explore a specific subject or theme, experiment with different techniques, and improve your photography skills.
To inspire you, I have compiled a list of project ideas that can help you enhance your photography skills in various ways. These ideas cover different aspects of photography, such as exploring different genres and experimenting with lighting, composition, and post-processing techniques.
Selecting the right photography project can give new life and meaning to your work. It can allow you to explore new themes, experiment with new techniques, and help you take your photography to new heights. To help you get started, I have curated eight project ideas that can benefit photographers, whether you’re a seasoned professional or just starting.
Project Ideas
1. One Landscape, One Day
Capture a single landscape over 24 hours. This exercise in patience and timing, observing how light transforms the scene, is fundamental for mastering exposure and understanding the nuances of natural light.
2. Seasonal Series
Document the same location across different seasons. This long-term project highlights nature’s transformative power and tests your commitment. It’s perfect for studying changes in color, light, and weather. Below is my try at capturing this location in different seasons.
Here is an ongoing series of this beautiful tree I’ve captured with different seasons, from Autumn to the start of Winter to Mid-Winter. The only season missing is Summer. However, I’ve shot it multiple times and never really gotten anything special in summer.
In honor of Earth Day, National Geographic is offering the chance to feature your best nature-themed image on their “Your Shot” Instagram page. The event is being pitched as less of a formal competition and just a great way to honor the best wildlife photography on the planet, for the planet.
The process is easy: Just post an image using the hashtag #NatGeoYourShotOurHOME between now and April 22nd. Prolific filmmaker Bertie Gregory and a handful of Nat Geo editorial staff will select their favorite shots and share on the Your Shot Instagram page on April 30th.
This article provides all the information about SD cards and USB card readers that you could possibly need. The reasons why things could be messed up with your data transfers are listed below. Please read each section carefully in order to make sure you understand exactly what is going on.
#1 Your SD card is actually slow
SD cards have been around awhile and because of that there is a chance you dug up an old card somewhere that is older and slower than any of your other cards. In this case there’s not a lot you can do, and since the SD card standard is really old, if you’ve been doing media stuff for awhile there’s every change in the world you have a slower card.
The original SD cards don’t have any extra naming on them, it’s just “SD”. SD cards have been introduced according to size class, below are the different size classes currently offered:
Maximum Capacity
2GB
32GB
2TB
128TB
Date Introduced
1999
2006
2009
2018
Size classes are a broad category for different SD card technologies that show what the maximum possible size is supported by each technology. Since 2018 most new cameras should support the largest size class for SD cards which is SDUC. These labels should be printed somewhere on your SD card, so, if you see SDHC which was introduced in 2006, you may have an older and slower SD card.
The most important rating related to speed is the Bus Interface type. Look on your card to see if it has a UHS Bus Logo on it as shown in the chart below. If there is no logo your card is probably an older and slower technology. If your card one of the bus logos in the chart below, then you should get the associated Bus Speed. However, that doesn’t mean that you’ll get those speeds for bursts or sustained writes, although you should something in that range for bursts because there is obviously no point in supporting a faster bus speed if the memory in the card doesn’t support the bus speed.
Bus Interface
Bus Logo
Bus Speed
SD
SDHC
SDXC
SDUC
Default Speed
12.5 MB/s
yes
yes
yes
yes
High Speed
25 MB/s
yes
yes
yes
yes
UHS-I
50-104 MB/s
no
yes
yes
yes
UHS-II
156-312 MB/s
no
yes
yes
yes
UHS-III
312-624 MB/s
no
yes
yes
yes
SD EXPRESS
985-3983 MB/s
no
yes
yes
yes
Bus speed does not guarantee sustained writes. It guarantees that the card can write in a burst at up to that speed. For sustained writes you’ll need to refer to the following chart which is called the VIDEO SPEED CLASS.
With the Video Speed Class, it’s purely about sustained writes specifically for something like recording video. Sustained writes tend to be a lot lower because these writes are limited by the flash memory in the SD card as opposed to the card’s bus.
#2 you’re using an old USB port or an old USB hub
Assuming you have determined that you have a relatively fast SD card to work with we can now move on to the next possible issue, your USB port or hub. From 1996 to 2014 there were 4 speed classes of USB introduced and they all used the same familiar rectangular USB plug known as a USB A connector. USB 3.2 introduced in 2017 uses only the new USB C type port. However, just having USB C does NOT guarantee USB 3.2 speeds! USB C is backwards compatible all the way to USB 2.0 so a USB C device could support any of the USB specifications from 2.0 all the way to the upcoming USB4… To try to state that as clearly as possible, USB 3.2 and USB4 ONLY support USB C, but USB C supports ALL USB versions going back to USB 2.0. Now, depending on the age of your computer you will probably be stuck with a USB port that is pretty slow. Here is a chart to help you make sense of that:
Version
USB 1.0
USB 1.1
USB 2.0
USB 3.0
USB 3.1
USB 3.2
USB 4
Date Introduced
1996
1998
2001
2011
2014
2017
2019
Maximum Transfer Speed
1.5 MB/s
1.5 MB/s
60 MB/s
625 MB/s
1,250 MB/s
2,500 MB/s
20GB/s – 120GB/s
With USB 2.0 things are further confused by the fact that there were different speeds of connections possible with 60MB/s being the maximum but slower connections being very common due to device limitations. The point being that your USB 2.0 device could be running at USB 1.0 speeds depending on whether the device, such as your card reader or USB hub, actually supports USB 2.0 High Speed.
There are two types of USB 3.1. USB 3.1 gen 1, and USB 3.1 gen 2. USB 3.1 gen 1 runs at the speeds shown above in the chart, but USB 3.1 gen 2 is a USB 3.2 speed protocol for USB 3.1 connectors. For instance, if you buy a USB A to USB C cable that says it is USB 3.1 gen 2 it will give you the USB 3.2 speeds.
Using the above chart you can see that any and all computers made before 2011 had USB 2.0 at best, so if your laptop or desktop is from 2011 or earlier this could be your reason for slow transfers.
The annoying thing is that even on new computers there are often still USB 2.0 ports. That is because many devices like a mouse and keyboard don’t need anything better than a USB 2.0 port. So, even though you might have a newer laptop a common theme I have seen is that a laptop might have 3 USB ports on it but 2 of them will be USB 2.0 and only 1 of them will be the newest USB 3.1 or USB 3.2 or whatever. If you are confused which one is which you can check your laptop case for a text label, try looking at the side or bottom of the laptop near the USB port in question, or you can also check your computer’s online user manual. If all else fails, try calling customer service.
Another common issue is that if you use an old USB 2.0 hub with a new USB 3.1 port you will only get the USB 2.0 speeds. So, if you are using a hub and getting slow speeds, try plugging your card reader directly into your computer and see if that improves things at all.
Of course the opposite is also true. If you plug a brand spanking new USB 3.2 hub into a USB 2.0 port, again, you only get the USB 2.0 speeds.
If you want the full speed of the USB port the card, the card reader, the cable, the USB hub, and the USB port on your computer all have to support the same maximum speeds.
Speaking of cables, this is yet another tricky situation with USB devices. Many companies are out there are selling non-standard cables, so watch out. As I said earlier USB C is backwards compatible with USB 2.0 and newer so just buying a USB C cable is no guarantee you will get the high speed transfers. You have to make sure that the USB cable you buy specifically supports the speeds you are trying to achieve.
Usually, devices and cables that support these standards will sport the “SuperSpeed” logo as a sign that they’re officially rated to achieve those speeds.
That just about covers the possibilities with USB devices and cables so on to the next possibility!
#3 Your card reader is slow
Card readers have to support all features of the USB connection and the SD card. You can’t just plug a UHS-III card into a card reader that only supports UHS-I. If you do that you will only get the UHS-I speeds at the most. The same is true for the USB support. If the reader only supports USB 3.0, you’ll be stuck with USB 3.0 speeds no matter what port you plug the card reader into.
#4 Your computer HDD is slow
That is because there are literally dozens of things you have to know about how computers work just to transfer data from a card to a computer HDD.
Even if you have the fastest USB, the fastest USB cables, the fastest USB card reader, and the fastest CFExpress cards in the world, when all that data gets downloaded onto your computer it still has to be saved onto the HDD or SSD and if the storage device in your computer is slow guess what?? Your transfers will still be slow. The fact is that while a CFExpress card can manage about 1,700 MB/s read speeds and the USB 3.2 spec can support that, the fastest mechanical hard drives will generally write to disk at about 170 MB/s, or about 10 times slower than the fastest cards.
In order to fix that problem, you have to get a faster SSD in your computer. Typically, that is going to be an NVME SSD. The good news is that as of the writing of this article 8TB SSD drives are currently available. So, using SSDs for media storage is finally possible.
If you have an older laptop you may be limited to SATA 3, that interface is limited to 600 MB/s which is still fast enough for most transfers you might encounter. But, if you are trying to transfer terabytes of data from your cards 600 MB/s may not be fast enough. 600 MB/s works out to about 32 minutes to transfer 1TB if that helps you decide whether you need to buy a new NVME enabled laptop or desktop.
IF you have a desktop computer with free PCIE slots you can purchase an NVME expansion card for your computer.
#5 Transfers are still slow even though you know all of the above should be correct
In the case that you have verified all of the above should be correct to enable high speed transfers to your computer, there are rare situations where your drivers are incorrect. Usually Windows will automatically install the correct drivers but sometimes things get messed up. You also could try reinstalling your operating system.
Another unfortunate possibility is a hardware failure of some sort. A cable may be failing or a USB port may be failing on your computer. In those cases try another port, USB hub, or even another computer and see if you get different results. It may seem crazy, but I have had USB ports fail on my computer from overuse. They usually don’t stop working entirely. What I experienced is that the port would become intermittent during transfers, slowing down to just a few KB/s then speeding up for a few seconds before slowing down again.
I have learned from experience that many of these USB related products have questionable performance characteristics either due to buggy chipsets or just being sold as something they are not. Don’t automatically take your cable and USB hub’s performance claims 100% at face value. Test them out on a system you know works properly. This is especially true if you went cheap and got one of those weird Amazon brands for a lot less money than seems normal (I speak from experience).
If all else fails, call an expert and see if they can help you figure out where the issue may be.
#6 SD cards aren’t fast enough for your needs
The highest read speed for SD cards as of writing is 300MB/s. Future cards may be faster, or they may not. To get faster transfers to your PC you’ll need CFExpress Type B cards, or you can use an external recording device that uses CFExpress Type B or SSD (NVME) drives to save your video and photo data.
Troubleshooting:
Problem: Transfers start out fast then slow down.
Answer 1: The computer HDD may be too slow to sustain a large file transfer.
Answer 2: The USB port may be failing. One sign of a USB port failure is highly irregular transfer speeds or extremely slow transfer speeds that never get faster.
Answer 3: The SD card, computer SSD, or USB port may be overheating due to excessive use or other problems.
Did you just get a new R5 or R5 mk II? Here are 5 helpful settings that can help you get more out of your R5 mk II.
Tip #1: Make sure IBIS (In Body Image Stabilization) is turned on.
Both version of the R5 have IBIS. Make sure IBIS is on so you can get more sharp pictures with less camera shake.
Tip #2: Turn your EVF and rear display up to the max!
Set your display to use 120 hz pro motion for the best result. When looking at your screens it will look smoother and better, especially when there’s things moving.
On the same menu you’ll see a setting called “Suppress lower frame rate”. To maximize performance, turn this off as well.
Please enjoy the use of your camera.
Tip #3: “Lower” the image quality to get more on your cards.
The EOS R5 mk II can record with a variety of different file formats and compression algorithms to help you fit more data onto your memory card. This can be especially useful for 4k video and higher resolutions.
Tip #4: You can use EF lenses on your R5 mk II with an EF to RF adapter.
Canon was very nice to design an adapter that will let you use an EF lens with your RF camera. Simply buy Canon’s adapter and attach it to the back of your EF lens, then you can attach the lens to your R5 mk II just like any other RF lens. By do this, you can save money and still have a Canon lens. (Very nice.)
Tip #5: Use the joystick to control your focus point.
The R5 mk II has a joystick on the back of it that you can use to move your focus point around. By using the joystick, you can easily select where you want your camera to focus on the frame.
