I mostly use Lightroom CC Classic as my daily choice. The AI tools inside Lightroom are powerful, and I often use the masking panel to create selections and fine adjustments. Occasionally, when I need to do some heavy editing, such as removing a difficult part from an image, I turn to Photoshop. The Content-Aware Crop is brilliant for adding more sky to a picture if cropped too tightly. Or, if I need to have more flexibility with layers, Photoshop is an excellent choice.
For experimenting with a photograph or when I feel too comfortable with editing, I use Luminar Neo. I can easily step into a beginner’s mindset while working with it. And finally, my go-to sharpener at the moment is Topaz Labs Sharpen AI, which does an excellent job when I need to add sharpness to my images. Also, GigaPixel AI is fantastic for ensuring my photographs look brilliant when printed.
AI image editing tools can significantly improve your landscape photography editing process. By using Lightroom, Photoshop, Luminar Neo, and Topaz Labs, you can achieve beautiful results and bring your creative vision to life. While these tools are powerful, they may have some flaws, so finding the right balance and workflow that suits your needs is essential. I recommend exploring and incorporating these tools into your workflow to enhance landscape photography.
Unlock Your Creative Potential
As you delve deeper into the world of AI-powered photo editing tools and unleash their potential, consider exploring some of the resources I’ve created to help photographers at all levels improve their skills and find inspiration.
The Complete Photography Collection. This all-inclusive package features all of my tutorials, presets, and eBooks, offering a comprehensive guide to enhancing your landscape photography and achieving the recognition your photos deserve.
Epic Preset Collection. Transform your editing process in Lightroom with my presets to help you unlock your creative potential and bring your images to life.
1-on-1 Photography Coaching. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced photographer, my new online 1-on-1 coaching service is designed to provide personalized guidance and support to your needs and goals.
Free Tutorials. For those just starting or looking to expand their skills without breaking the bank, check out my collection of free tutorials covering various aspects of photography and editing.
Remember that AI is a tool; like any tool, it can’t replace the human element in the creative process. Embrace your intuition, emotions, and experiences as a photographer, and let them guide your editing choices. This will help you create images that not only look interesting but also resonate on an emotional level.
Your personal style and artistic voice are what makes your photography unique. While AI tools can help you achieve technical perfection, preserving your creative identity and ensuring that your images reflect your personal touch is essential.
Let me know if you use any of these tools or want to try them out. Thanks for reading!
Disclaimer: I’m an affiliate of some of these programs. Remember that using the affiliate links in this article helps support my work and enables me to continue sharing my experiences and insights with you.
Volcano photography is an enriching hobby. Even though a lot of work goes into the process of capturing the best volcano pictures, the experience makes everything worth it. Yes, it’s risky but it’s an experience like no other.
To photograph a volcano, you’ll need a quick shutter speed to freeze any motion. Set your speed to 1/1000th, then change your ISO and aperture as necessary. Shooting volcanoes from the air, ground, or sea captures dramatically different outcomes and a better view of the lava source.
Read on to learn the best tips on photographing volcanoes and how to do it safely.
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Best Ways to Locate Vantage Points
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If you want to make the process a lot faster, you can ask a local to take you to the best vantage points. When photographing volcanoes, it’s not enough to see the areas in photographs or hear stories from other people. You’ll need to visit them and see them for yourself. Just don’t forget to take the appropriate lens for each possible viewpoint.
When you go to an erupting volcano, take some time to observe the explosion from a safe distance. Determine the eruption’s strength and the direction in which the hot lava is moving for your safety. As we all know, it’s not safe to get near an erupting volcano.
Photographing Tips During the Day
You can catch the most powerful volcanic eruptions and ash clouds by shooting photos of volcanic explosions throughout the day. Shooting lava is an option as well. Your most probable lens will be a 24-105mm lens. A long lens is ideal if you are far away.
You may either try to freeze the motion in daylight photography or create some motion blur.
Freeze the motion: You will need quick shutter speeds to freeze falling lava bombs, or pyroclastic flows captured on camera. Set your speed to 1/1000th, then change your ISO and aperture as necessary. The ISO is probably at or over 1000. You should typically use an aperture of f/8 while taking landscape photography. You may need to use a bigger aperture as it grows darker.
Motion blur: Slower shutter speeds, which may blur motion, are at the other extreme of the shutter speed continuum. Shutter speeds of 1/20th are required to capture the appearance of action. Use this with ash clouds if you can. Shutter speeds of one second or longer are perfect for recording lava movement. Use an ISO of 100 and a narrower aperture to obtain slower shutter speeds. Add a graded neutral density filter if necessary.
Photographing Tips At Night
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Nighttime is one of the loveliest periods to try taking photos of lava. You will be able to detect the glowing lava much better.
The ideal time to take photos is during the late blue hour. You have a higher chance of detecting the volcano’s foreground features. The lava will seem brighter in the picture the later you go into the blue hour. The rocks will become shadows against the lava once wholly dark.
For this reason, you need to try to take pictures while the moon is full. Bring a powerful flashlight so you can illuminate molten rock during the exposure. Look to expose for up to 10 seconds if you want to get the lava streaks.
ND filters are also valuable for blue-hour situations. You may shoot the volcano with prolonged exposure and six- to eight-stop neutral density filters.
Use the same general procedures as when shooting a typical landscape. When feasible, bracket your shots and shoot in RAW. Exercise delicate processing to guarantee that the image you capture is as accurate as possible. Make sure your lava has a red and orange gradient and lessen the brightness.
Protecting Yourself and Your Gear
You will need gear to protect yourself and your photography equipment before anything else.
Safety Gear
Volcanoes pose a wide range of hazards, particularly if you want to approach a volcano or lava flow up close. Most photographers covering volcanoes have a few specific things in their gear.
Helmet: Falling rock is one of the main risks around volcanoes (or lava bombs).
Heat-resistant clothes: Wear heat-resistant clothes since it might be dangerous to approach the lava.
Gas masks: The area surrounding volcanoes may contain deadly gases.
Note: None of these items will shield you from pyroclastic flows.
Photography Gear
The following are the camera gear you need for taking volcano pictures.
Camera body: A must-have is a sturdy camera body and weather and dust-sealed.
Lens: You must carry a wide-angle lens while taking landscape photos, especially for dormant volcanoes. Mid and long focal lengths are preferable for an active volcano.
Tripod: Make sure the tripod is robust and heat-resistant.
UV filter: A UV filter protects from different debris present in an extreme environment.
Camera blowers or towels for cleaning
Hiking Gear
Some volcanoes are located in very rugged terrain. That suggests you also need the following on top of the appropriate safety gear.
Hiking boots
Walking poles
Water and rations
Tent or sleeping gear
First aid kit
Dormant Volcanoes Photography
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Even when they are not erupting, volcanoes are breathtakingly gorgeous. They are excellent photographic subjects because of their rough geology and features like crater rims. For times when the lava isn’t flowing, here are some other photographic locations:
Trekking up the volcano: It’s advantageous to climb a volcano when it’s dormant. Deep ravines and leaking gas will still provide challenges. Though even when it is not an active volcano, there are safety risks.
Acid lakes: Acid lakes form when escaping sulfur gas combines with a crater lake. These lakes are highly picturesque and have an odd, otherworldly sense.
Geysers: Geysers are nature’s fountains and make excellent picture subjects.
Sulfur mines: Sulfur mines also make for a compelling photo.
Photographing From The Ground
Photographing from the ground is challenging and poses some particular difficulties. First, it takes a lot of frames and a little luck to get all parts to line up at once.
Don’t forget to get wide and detailed shots when shooting from the ground. Photograph between 14mm and 500mm, and be sure to have all your lenses on hand and keep an eye out for various compositions.
Examine several shutter speeds to determine which effect you like. A 1-second exposure often produces the most remarkable results.
When the blue hour is winding down, there is a perfect balance of light for 15 to 30 minutes. Because it moves quickly, you must be sure that you have chosen the best composition for the excursion at that point.
It’s feasible for your tripod and camera equipment to melt while taking close-up photos with a wide-angle lens. Surprisingly far, lava flows transmit heat.
Photographing From The Air
Since many volcanoes are unreachable by land, it is better to have a broad notion of capturing the volcano and setting up your camera correctly in advance.
When the shutter speed is less than 1/500th of a second, vibrating aircraft like piston-engined helicopters tend to produce blurry images. If possible, set shutter speeds to 1/750th or even 1/1000th of a second; however, you may get away with 1/500th if your lenses have image stabilization.
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A fast (f/2.8) lens is advantageous in this situation since you can often shoot wide open and still have everything in focus because the explosive eruptions are far away.
ISO is the only setting you have to work with to get the proper exposure with a wide-open aperture and 1/750th of a second – this is where your camera’s “auto ISO” feature comes in useful.
The last factor is ensuring that the camera chooses the appropriate exposure for you. Use “highlight-weighted metering” if your DSLR has it. Volcanic photography in dark regions is easy to work in a frame with better exposure.
For helicopter safety, do not switch lenses while the plane is in the air. In light of this, keep two camera bodies: one with a 24-70mm lens and the other with a 70-200mm or 80-400mm lens. Keep the camera’s strap connected, and wear them around your neck the whole trip.
Photographing From The Sea
You should certainly see the lava from a boat to get a close-up view while it is entering the water. It is a fantastic view position that makes for a very immersive experience.
A 70-200mm lens (full frame) is ideal for capturing the hot lava trickling into the water in fine detail. A shutter speed of at least 1/250 second was necessary to freeze the motion due to the rocking boat and splashing waves.
Where Are the Best Volcanoes to Capture?
Most of the world’s volcanoes are in tectonically active regions, such as in the country of New Zealand, the Philippines, Japan, Kamchatka, Alaska, and the western coasts of North and South America.
Indonesia, Italy, Iceland, Hawaii, and other places in Africa also have incredibly beautiful volcanoes.
Before going, look at the volcanic eruption history and ask locals about the actual eruption. Consider hiring a guide to accompany you as well.
Find out whether the volcano generates potentially harmful pyroclastic flows. If so, find out which way they often travel.
Conclusion
Taking images of volcanoes is a ton of fun, and the results will blow you away! If you are interested in volcano photography, ensure you have the right gear and a good guide who knows the area well to get some great images.
One way to improve your sports photos is to get the right background. Choosing the right background can make or break a sports photo. Whether you’re capturing individual headshots, team portraits, or promotional images, the backdrop plays a crucial role in setting the tone, reinforcing branding, and making the subject stand out.
In some cases, a transparent background gives you max flexibility, while other scenarios call for a bold team-branded backdrop, a dynamic stadium setting, or a clean, neutral tone. Check out some of the best background options for sports photography—including field and court settings, team logos, dramatic lighting effects, and templates—to help you create impactful images every time.
Sports photo background ideas
The “field”
Using a real sports environment helps establish context and energy in your shots. Some great location choices include:
Stadiums: A stadium backdrop can emphasize the grandeur of the sport, making it ideal for professional headshots or team portraits. Be mindful of the composition—an empty stadium creates a different feel than one filled with fans.
Tracks: A running track or cross-country trail provides a sense of movement and purpose. Position the athlete at a starting line for an action-driven portrait.
Beach: Perfect for sports like beach volleyball, surfing, or running, the ocean and sand can create a lively, high-energy image. Plan your shoot during golden hour for the best lighting.
Indoor arenas: Basketball courts, hockey rinks, or even boxing gyms provide an enclosed environment with controlled lighting. Use a wide aperture to blur out distracting elements while keeping the athlete as the focal point.
Sports fields: Soccer fields, cricket pitches, or rugby grounds offer a natural, open space that works well for solo and group shots. If the field is in use, position your subject in an area with minimal distractions.
Gyms and locker rooms
For an intense, gritty look, gyms and locker rooms can provide a compelling backdrop. Weight rooms, benches, and training spaces add authenticity, making the athlete’s preparation a key part of the story.
Use directional lighting to highlight muscle definition and create dramatic shadows. If shooting in a locker room, frame the shot to include elements like jerseys, team logos, or open lockers for added storytelling. Pay attention to the composition. You can avoid cluttered backgrounds by positioning your subject in front of an open locker with a neatly arranged jersey and equipment, for example.
How One Sports Photographer Uses Path to Edit Photos for 16 Teams Every Season
Urban settings
Cityscapes, iconic landmarks, or industrial settings can be excellent backdrops for sports photography, especially for athletes who train outdoors. This option works particularly well for individual portraits of runners, cyclists, or street athletes.
Again, be mindful of busy backgrounds—use a shallow depth of field to keep the focus on the athlete. Early morning or evening shoots often provide softer light and less foot traffic.
Smoke or lighting effects
If you want to add drama, using colored lights, LED strips, or smoke effects can create a bold, high-impact background. This is a great option for marketing shots, posters, and social media content.
Smoke and lighting effects can create a variety of looks, so the possibilities are truly endless. In the examples above, you can see how smoke and fog add dama to photos of a dirt biker, soccer players, and a football player.
Showcasing team identity is always a smart choice. You can use the team logo or colors, or a sponsor’s logo and colors. Solid or gradient backgrounds in team colors can create a consistent, polished look.
A blurred background helps isolate the subject and remove distractions. This technique is useful when shooting in a busy location, like a crowded gym or an active playing field.
There are a few ways to get a blurred background:
Shoot with a shallow depth of field: Use a wide aperture (e.g., f/2.8 or lower) to blur the background while keeping the athlete sharp.
Use motion blur: Works well for dynamic shots where slight movement is captured.
Edit the background in post-production: If you can’t get it in-camera, you can add the blur effect during the editing process. Find out how to blur the background in this tutorial.
Neutral
A clean, neutral backdrop—like gray, white, or black—keeps the focus on the athlete. This is a solid choice for profile shots, media use, and professional headshots.
Use a softbox or ring lights to help maintain even lighting without harsh shadows. Seamless paper or collapsible fabric backdrops work best for the backdrop materials.
Transparent
For maximum flexibility, a transparent background allows you to place the subject onto any background later. This is especially useful for promotional materials, digital content, and merchandise design. You can find out how to make a transparent background with this tutorial and in the video below:
A stadium, team-branded backdrop, or a solid color with team colors works well for team portraits.
Should I use a green screen for sports photos?
A green screen can work if you plan to replace the background, but good lighting is crucial for a clean result.
What’s the advantage of a transparent background?
The advantage of a transparent background is that it gives you flexibility to place the subject onto different backgrounds later, making it ideal for marketing materials and graphics.
Andrew Hancock isn’t the type of photographer that has a lot of downtime from shooting. As one sports season wraps up, he’s already looking ahead to what’s coming up. And when Hancock is covering a sporting event, he’s typically overseeing the remote cameras aimed at the athletes—he estimates for a basketball or baseball game he’s managing anywhere between six to 12 cameras at a time. For horse racing, it can be as many as 20 cameras.
It’s a massive amount of data that needs to be managed after the fact. Hancock trusts the SanDisk® Professional G-DRIVE® PROJECT desktop solution which has a built-in PRO-BLADE™ SSD Mag slot, and SanDisk® PRO-CINEMA CFexpress™ Type B cards to stand up the challenge when he is out in the field.
“I’m only as fast as my slowest point and speed is everything, especially when you’re doing work for the teams,” Hancock says. “Cards can be the Achilles heel for sports photographers—we’re using high speed frame rates, and trying to get as much of the action as we possibly can. SanDisk PRO-CINEMA CFexpress Type B cards help let me push my camera to its limits.”
The SanDisk PRO-CINEMA CFexpress Type B card is a key part of Hancock’s workflow. The card is designed for professional photographers and videographers who need a high-performance, reliable storage solution. The card is compatible with a wide range of cameras, and it offers read speeds of up to 1700MB/s1 and burst write speeds of up to 1500MB/s1. This means that Hancock can capture high-resolution photos and videos without having to worry about his cards slowing him down.
Hancock says that SanDisk’s line of professional products has allowed him to create a daisy-chained ecosystem that works well together. The reliable, fast PRO-CINEMA CFexpress cards are loaded into the cameras, media on the cards is offloaded using the SanDisk Professional PRO-DOCK 4 or PRO-BLADE SSD Mag slots, eventually getting archived on a G-RAID® MIRROR.
“The ability to be able to pump this data as fast as it can go and wherever it can go, means I’m not having to worry about overheating issues or filling the buffer,” Hancock says. “In a clenching situation, where I want to get as much as I possibly can, these cards allow me to actually focus on capturing the moment, without worrying about missing frames.”
For Hancock, having these fast, top of the line cards and drives is as essential as his cameras and lenses when he’s on a job.
“I know I’m not going to be covering a massive event and then something’s going to fail or underperform. At the end of the day that comes back on me,” he says. “It’s like being the quarterback of the team. It doesn’t matter if the receiver dropped the ball, everything comes back to your shoulders. It’s on you. As a photographer you’ve got to make those decisions. And it’s a business decision, quite frankly.”
Professional sports photographers typically spend a good deal of time on the road—Hancock mentions that some years he has up to 200 travel days a year. Having a storage solution that’s been easy to pack up and set up on location has also been a huge part of the appeal for him. Beyond its compact size, the SanDisk PRO-CINEMA CFexpress Type B card also comes with a durable enclosure, withstanding up to 1-meter drops and the pressure of up to 50 newtons2, so Hancock can be confident his data will be safe on the go.
“I’m like water, I want the path of least resistance. Having a streamlined workflow takes all the stress out of the situation for me,” he says.
For Hancock having such a streamlined workflow with storing and archiving, enables him to perform at a higher level and be more creative when he’s working. But it’s also helped him get valuable back time. “It’s made my job easier and more efficient, which ultimately means more time with my kids whenever I’m home,” he says. “I love what I do, but any second that I can get back, I want it.”
1Up to 1700MB/s read speed; up to 1500MB/s write speed. 1400MB/s minimum sustained write speed. Based on internal testing; performance may be lower depending upon host device, usage conditions, and other factors. 1MB=1,000,000 bytes.
