برچسب: Art

  • Underwater Whale Photography with the Sigma 14mm F1.4 DG DN Art Lens

    Underwater Whale Photography with the Sigma 14mm F1.4 DG DN Art Lens


    I recently returned from two months of guiding, photographing, and filming ocean safaris in the South Pacific and Caribbean. I work for Just the Wild, a company that specializes in ethical in-water whale and other marine megafauna encounters. Akin to that, I also work as a professional nature and adventure photographer and filmmaker with a specialty in underwater imagery. Before departing, I felt like my underwater images had stagnated in look and aesthetic. Before leaving, I wanted to get my hands on a lens that few underwater shooters have yet to discover. I quickly honed in on the Sigma 14mm F1.4 DG DN | Art.

    This lens stood out to me because of its design for astrophotography. The night sky and underwater imagery world overlap a lot. When shooting underwater, you need to be using a lens that’s extremely wide, has fast and accurate autofocus, and, most important to me, satisfies my greed for sharpness.


    My underwater setup:

    My current go-to underwater setup is the Sony Alpha 1 with a Sigma 14mm F1.4 DG DN | Art contained within a Nauticam housing with a 230mm dome port. While my setup changes depending on what I’m shooting, I rarely make changes when it comes to shooting large animals such as whales.

    For anyone looking to get into the underwater world, there are now numerous great housing options. You can’t go wrong with Nauticam, Marelux, Isotta, Aquatica, and for entry-level, I’ve seen great results with Sea Frogs housings. Whatever you go with, make sure you get a housing with a vacuum pump. This will ensure you never flood your housing. I’ve lost a few cameras before I spent the extra money on that safety feature. I’d also recommend consulting distributors like Reef Photo & Video (an authorized Sigma dealer as well) on getting the proper dome and extension ring setup for your lens (I’ll come back to this on maximizing the sharpness for lenses like the 14mm F1.4).


    General tips and settings:

    Like I said earlier when it comes to underwater, you have to adapt your setup and settings to fit your target subject. That being said, these are the settings for 98% of my whale and other large animal species. The golden ticket to never missing a shot: 1/800 shutter or faster, F8 or above depending on light, and auto ISO.

    Now I know you’re scratching your head with the auto ISO. Isn’t it better to manually adjust? New mirrorless cameras give you the ability to set a range for your auto ISO. I limit my camera from being able to shoot above 6400. New mirrorless cameras can easily handle that ISO with very little noise. This allows me to worry more about my composition rather than my settings, which is essential in a dynamic situation like snorkeling with a whale.


    Standout features of the Sigma 14mm 1.4:

    BUILD QUALITY:

    Upon getting the lens, the first thing that stood out to me was the craftsmanship of the build. This lens boasts meticulous and detailed care the engineers put into it. You can’t help but marvel at the beautiful front element and the design of the aperture ring. The other must for me is the weather resistance. This lens is designed to be left outside all night photographing stars, making it tough. Every now and then, I have to open my housing on a boat, a not-so-dry environment, I might add. This lens gives me the peace of mind that my day won’t end in catastrophe if I get water on it.

    FOCAL LENGTH:

    As I mentioned before, the front element of this lens is a work of art. Boasting a 114-degree field of view, this lens is very wide. When shooting underwater, you want as little space between you and your subject as possible. The water and the particulates in it distort your color and detail, so have to be right up in the action. When you’re close to a 35-foot-plus giant, this lens assures that the entire animal will be in view.

    F1.4 APERTURE:

    For most other underwater shooters, having the ability to shoot at F1.4 isn’t a big sell. When shooting underwater with a dome port, you typically want an aperture of F8 or smaller, otherwise, your edges will become soft. However, I find it extremely useful when filming. When it comes to video, I don’t focus as much on the absolute sharpness I desire with my photos. Especially if I’m shooting a subject I can’t use lighting on, the F1.4 aperture allows me to film later in the day and in darker water. There’s now also the advent of new dome ports by Nauticam called WACP ports. These ports now allow you to shoot much sharper and wider apertures. These ports allow you to use your lenses at a wider aperture without sacrificing corner sharpness. While a port like this doesn’t yet exist for the 14mm, Nauticam has been consistently innovating, and I wouldn’t be surprised if they come out with one soon.

    EXAMPLE OF VIDEO SHOT AT F1.4

    SHARPNESS:

    Have I mentioned I’m a sharpness snob? One of the reasons I wanted to switch from a 16-35mm to a wide prime like the Sigma 14mm F1.4 DG DN | Art is the sharpness. Aside from this lens being insanely sharp on its own accord, the fact that it’s a fixed length makes it that much sharper underwater.

    When building your underwater rig, the distance between the front element and the dome port is a huge factor in how sharp your images will be. If you’re changing that distance by zooming in and out, you’ll affect how sharp your images are. By having the 14mm sitting at the perfect distance from the dome port at all time, it maximizes the sharpness of the lens. So much that I can massively crop in on my images and see things like sea lice and other parasites hitching a ride on our giant friends. It’s also extremely valuable for me to crop in on other details of these animals, such as their eye, or pectoral fin, to derive unique compositions. This is only possible with glass this sharp.

    EDGE-TO-EDGE QUALITY:

    Another huge draw to this lens for underwater shooters is the edge-to-edge quality. As underwater shooters, we’re constantly battling soft and distorted edges in our images. My first day with the lens, I had a humpback calf inches from the front of my lens. After reviewing the images, I quickly noticed the edges preserved almost all their detail, so much so that I could see the hair follicles on the whale. While still a little soft, something that’s inevitable underwater, the effect is leagues better than shooting on a fisheye or a zoom lens.

    AUTOFOCUS:

    There’s not much to say here besides that the autofocus is flawless. Once I have a whale in frame, I hold down the trigger and let the continuous autofocus go to work. Of the 20,000+ images I took over the two months, I don’t think I had a single miss. While I encounter a lot of animal guiding, every moment is unique and fleeting. Having the ability to capture every unrepeated moment might mean the difference between a good image and an exceptional one.


    Conclusions and final thoughts:

    My favorite aspect of the images the 14mm F1.4 DG DN | Art produces is the dimensionality of the photo’s aesthetics. After my first day with this lens, I sent a video I filmed with it to a colleague of mine, and his response was, “That whale looks like it’s about to pop out of the screen.” This was the look I’ve been craving in my images, which wasn’t possible with a 16-35mm. I’d recommend this lens to any underwater shooter who’s looking to obtain peak sharpness, flawless autofocus, and wants to add a unique aesthetic to your imagery.

    It’s safe to say that this lens will be my go-to workhorse on my future underwater adventures.



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  • The Art Of Urban Black And White Photography

    The Art Of Urban Black And White Photography


    Do you, like me, find black and white images incredibly evocative? They seem to draw us in more than colour, have more sense of life and of story. There are a few genres of photography that are not suited to monochrome, but one that most definitely is, is the urban landscape.

    There is so much in urban areas that lends itself to black and white. Amble areas of light and shade, textures, form and most importantly geometry and symmetry.

    Today we are going to explore how to elevate your urban images into artistic black and whites.

    Low angle black and white shot of buildings and people in La Defence, Paris
    Low angle urban black and white. By Jason Row Photography

    You Need To See In Black and White

    The simple fact is, that not every urban shot you take will be suited to black and white. To shoot great black and white shots you need to see in black and white. Now, that might seem quite an odd statement, especially given the billions of colours our eyes are capable of recording, but hear me out.

    Identifying a black and white urban image is not literally about seeing in black and white. It’s about identifying the elements that go into making a great black and white photo.

    Some of the most important are the interplay of light and shade and the use of lines of contrast. Light and shade are, perhaps, more important in black and white than in colour. The depth of the blacks define how we react to an image emotionally, the harder the black the more gritty and harsh the image can feel.

    Lines of contrast lead our eye around the image. This contrast need not be pure black or white, but well defined graduations of tone that give depth to an image.

    One tip, if you struggle with “seeing” black and white in your urban landscapes is to shoot in a black and white mode. On many cameras, this will turn the viewfinder/LCD monochrome as well, making it easier for you to see if the shot works. Make sure you are shooting RAW and JPEG though as the RAW file will give us so much more latitude when editing.

    Long exposure twilight shot of the parliament building in Budapest, Hungary
    What works in colour…… By Jason Row Photography
    Long exposure black and white twilight shot of the parliament building in Budapest, Hungary
    Often also works in black and white. By Jason Row Photography

    Colour Is Important

    Briefly, it is important to know that colour is vital to our black and white shots. Assuming we have shot RAW (see above), we can increase or decrease the luminance of any of the primary colours. For example when editing a blue sky, we can decrease the blue luminance to make that sky much darker.

    The urban environment is full of colour, from the faded to the bold. When we are shooting we can identify those blocks of colours that we either wish to enhance or reduce in significance.

    For example a bright yellow sign with bold lettering might make an interesting subject to our urban shot. By decreasing the luminance of the blue channel (opposite to yellow) we can brighten up that sign and separate it from the rest of the image. The same can be true of faded colours, we can enhance or reduce their intensity according to how relevant we wish them to be in the image.

    Black and white architectural style shot of Lloyds Building in London
    The urban environment is about shapes, forms and shadows. By Jason Row Photography

    Composition In The Urban Environment

    Once you have found the ability to “see” in black and white, you will see monochrome opportunities around every corner. There are several elements in the urban environment that we can identify for black and white shots. The first are the shapes, forms and textures of the manmade. Another is the human element, the stories of the people in that built environment – these also cross genres with street photography. Another important black and white element can be the way nature interacts with the urban.

    In man made we are looking for the way the light interacts with structures. How light casts shadows and creates depth and form to our shots. We are looking for symmetry and geometry. A symmetrical image of a building can look great but add in a person to one side and you add tension to the shot. In black and white, this can look amazing.

    Textures are everywhere in urban areas, from the rust of the manmade to the bark of a tree. Low directional light makes these textures pop whilst shallow depth of field hints at the location. Graffiti and urban decay are also fantastic black and white subjects in cities and towns

    The way the natural works with the manmade is another great area to focus on with your black and white urban images. The lone tree in front of a modern structure. A line of park benches in an urban park. There is so much to look for and shoot.

    Black and white image of an old Lada car in the courtyard of a Soviet apartment block in Chisinau, Moldova
    Urban black and white can also be documentary. By Jason Row Photography

    In The Edit – Processing Black and White

    Taking a good black and white is half the job. Editing it is the other half. These days it’s not difficult to edit great black and white urban shots. Tools like Lightroom Classic have a plethora of functions to help us get good black and white images.

    There are some things that you can do to add punch though. Convert the image using a colour profile, this will give you a good starting point. Use the black and white sliders to adjust the amount of overall contrast you are looking for. Pushing to the ends of the histogram (or even beyond) will give maximum contrast whilst pulling the blacks and whites inside the histogram will reduce the contrast.

    The clarity and texture sliders are great tools for managing mid tone contrasts, and are especially useful in punching out textures. Use masking tools to isolate areas of textures and enhance them.

    As mentioned earlier the use of RGB sliders can allow us to manipulate individual colour channels within our black and white urban images giving us huge control over the way they look.

    Editing the urban environment in black and white is an immensely satisfying thing to do, be it a few hours or few years after you took the original image.

    Reflections of the Lloyds building in London in black and white
    Geometry and reflections. By Jason Row Photography

    As we mentioned at the top, the urban environment is, perhaps, the best place you will find to elevate your black and white photos to more artistic images.

    It’s hard not to find great black and white shots in towns and cities but it will take some practice to both start seeing in black and white and finding compositions to enhance your monochrome shots. But, as they say, practice makes perfect, and with the cameras and editing tools we have to hand today, practice is also immensely satisfying

    Further Reading





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  • Photo Gallery: Sigma 14-24mm F2.8 DG DN Art Lens

    Photo Gallery: Sigma 14-24mm F2.8 DG DN Art Lens


    Sigma presents a gallery of images by professional photographer Darren White. This gallery is comprised entirely of photos shot with the 14-24mm F2.8 DG DN | Art lens, released in 2019 for full-frame format mirrorless cameras.

    With the Sigma 14-24mm Art lens, you get edge-to-edge sharpness, minimal distortion (even at 14mm), and color rendering that will make your edits feel almost unnecessary. I own and use both the Sony E-mount and older Nikon F versions, and love them equally the same!

    Weather sealed, rock solid build and surprisingly compact for what it offers, it’s the lens that says, “Go ahead, dust, rain & cold. Bring it on!” As a professional landscape photographer I shoot in all extreme conditions, and this lens will hold up in any of them.

    Darren White, Professional Photographer

    About

    Born and raised on the Oregon Coast where his love for beautiful landscapes began. In 1999 Darren moved to Portland Oregon and soon fell in love with the mountains and Columbia River Gorge areas. In July of 2013 Darren made a huge move to Littleton, Colorado where he has quickly fell in love with the majestic mountains Colorado has to offer and the outdoor life Colorado is known for.

    Darren has been published in various magazines like Popular Photography, Columbia Gorge Magazine and had a mention in National Geographic Traveler. His prints have been sold worldwide and used for all kinds of media from Websites to Trade Show Backdrops.

    Darren enjoys a variety of outdoors activities which include but are not limited to, hiking, biking, running, night photography, trail running, climbing steep hills and simply just being amazed at what nature can produce!

    Equipment used


    14-24mm F2.8 DG DN | A

    EXPLORE MORE


    Photographer Etsuko Aimu captures images of her children with the Sigma 17-40mm F1.8 DC | Art lens mounted on a Canon EOS R7 mirrorless camera. This APS-C format combination produces beautiful photos for memories that last a lifetime, and beyond.


    With the Sigma 17-40mm F1.8 DC | Art lens at his side, photographer and cinematographer Naoki Miyashita visits a Kyoto pottery workshop to find out just how well this modern evolution of a beloved APS-C zoom lens performs.



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  • In-Depth Exploration: Sigma 28-105mm F2.8 DG DN Art Lens

    In-Depth Exploration: Sigma 28-105mm F2.8 DG DN Art Lens


    Back in July 2024 I had the pleasure of being one of the first photographers to try the new Sigma 28-105mm F2.8 DG DN | Art lens that was soon to be released. It was an opportunity I jumped at when offered to me. I wrote this article for Sigma after using the lens for only a few weeks.

    You’ll see the images I took back then with a Lumix S5 II camera and the Sigma fp L. In that article, I mentioned that I couldn’t wait to own the lens myself. Now I do, and it’s been nothing but pure joy to shoot with on my Nikon Z8. This lens is currently available in both L-Mount & E-mount, and I’m using the E-mount with a Megadap E-to-Z adapter.

    After nearly a year of frequent use, I wanted to give a little update on my overall experience with the lens.


    Experience and images

    The lens is extremely sharp throughout the focal range from 28mm to 105mm, and for night photography the corners are very sharp at F2.8. Even the colors of the RAW files are very nice. The lens provides a beautiful amount of contrast along with excellent color to give you an incredible starting point for RAW files and instantly printable/publishable files if you shoot JPG.

    Aside from shooting landscapes and general photography, one of the main reasons I wanted this lens was for its F2.8 maximum aperture throughout the entire focal range. This means that it’s a fantastic lens for night photography too. So I’ll start and end my image examples with night photos.

    The above image “Echo Lake Stars” was shot on the morning of March 3, 2025. It was very cold and clear out. I arrived at Echo Lake near Idaho Springs, Colorado. I’ll admit, I was hoping for more snow on the trees, but we take what we can get, right? I knew this would be a good opportunity to not only test the low-light ability of the Z8 (although this blog isn’t about the Z8) but to really test the lens in low light again, this time not shooting the Milky Way, but just the stars.

    The lens did an amazing job with manual focusing, and as you can see the details are razor sharp which allows for larger than normal printing if needed (that’s another topic for another blog). After shooting this landscape, I then took a series of shots for the sky to help reduce the noise for a better overall image. You don’t want a nice clean foreground with a noisy sky… that just wouldn’t look right. Even in the cold weather the lens performed flawlessly.

    Near my home in Colorado, there are scrub oak trees that look like autumn color most of the year. I captured this more intimate scene of the leaves and branches in all their details. Even at 95mm, there is detail from edge to edge, corner to corner. The versatile zoom range really lets you perfect your composition in-camera so there is less to do in post processing. The low dispersion elements in the lens do a fantastic job of eliminating chromatic aberrations (purple and green fringing) that could potentially be problematic in scenes like this.

    With the lens coming in right at 2 pounds, it makes it an easy walking around lens that I don’t need to put away in my bag when walking from place to place. The two above images were shot the same morning and are roughly 1/4-mile from each other. While this is a short distance to me, some may consider it quite a hike when walking through the snow. I’ve walked through both towns and natural settings like this for hours, and never felt like the lens was too heavy or bulky. I also find it balanced well on all three cameras I used it with… Nikon Z8, Sigma fp L & Lumix S5 II.

    When I sat down to photograph these geese, I thought they were going to all fly or swim away. The exact opposite happened – they came right up to me to see what I was about. They were moving so fast and my camera wasn’t set up to shoot wildlife (AF tracking) so I just did the best I could, and was able to capture this image of a goose looking right at me. The lens nailed the focus to give the feathers incredible details to go along with the razor sharp eyes.

    One feature that I have found to be extremely handy is the zoom lock switch. Because I generally walk around with my camera and lenses at my side, I really like to lock my lens at 28mm so it doesn’t extend down while I’m walking.

    I’m an absolute sucker for ice photos. Normally, I’d take out my Sigma 105mm F2.8 DG DN Macro | Art lens for shots like this. But now I can take advantage of the 28-105mm’s close focusing ability and save the macro lens for more technical work. The crazy amount of details in this image shows how well the lens performs even at close distances. I’d say the ice is only about 2-3 inches from the golden water below.

    The above image and several photos below showcase what I like to call “subtle details”. Snow is the perfect example. By being able to visually see the small bits of snow, it really helps to tell the story of the image rather than if the snow was overexposed or not in proper focus. The Sigma 28-105mm F2.8 DG DN | Art really does a great job of nailing the focus to bring all the details to the viewer.

    Recently, while walking around town, I captured a couple images that show differences in the lens’ ability – please click to expand the images and get a closer look:

    The statue portrait shows the amazing close focusing ability to capture all the details while shooting at F2.8 to allow for a gorgeous blurred background. The street sign image shows how we can use the zoom range to fill the frame and keep everything in focus. These are nothing fancy by any means, but if you’re looking for a good travel lens, this one is hard to beat. I need to get out and do some city night photography with it soon.

    As a mid-day walking around lens, the 28-105mm F2.8 DG DN | Art lens can really do it all. It’s the new workhorse standard by which all other 24-105mm and similar range lenses should be compared to. Even after all the shooting I’ve done with this lens, I’ve never been in a situation where I couldn’t get a shot because it was 28mm rather than 24mm. That 4mm at the wide end isn’t something I even notice, and neither will you unless you’re working in a very confined space or studio.

    As a photographer who works primarily outdoors, I really like the idea of my gear being weather sealed for better protection against the elements. When your lens is this close to the water (see above), you feel safer knowing it’s protected from splashes and dust.

    I’ve always said if you want to upgrade your equipment, it’s best to look at your lenses first. No matter how good your camera sensor is, it will only record the light that passes through all the elements of the lens. If that light doesn’t hit your sensor with crisp, colorful details, your camera simply can’t make adjustments to give you a better file. This is one reason why most people never keep their kit lenses after a year. They are striving for better images, and better images come from better light being passed through the lens onto your sensor.

    Lastly, if you enjoy night photography and don’t want to buy a bunch of different lenses for the various types of photography you do, I highly encourage you to look at this lens.

    Both of the images above were shot with the Sigma 28-105mm F2.8 DG DN | Art lens. 28mm is my favorite focal length for shooting the Milky Way, and for years I have used the Sigma 28mm F1.4 DG HSM | Art lens, which rarely leaves my Nikon D850 camera, my dedicated night photography camera. However, now that I have the 28-105mm, I find myself using my more compact mirrorless combination more often.


    Final thoughts

    I can’t say enough good things about this lens, its features, and the outstanding build quality. I still own the 24-105mm F4 DG OS HSM | Art lens for Nikon F mount, purchased roughly 12 years ago, and I suspect I’ll own this 28-105mm even longer. It’s fast, fairly lightweight, super quick to focus, and it makes photography fun without the hassle of changing lenses all the time!

    If you have any specific questions about the lens, please don’t hesitate to ask.



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  • The Art Of Capturing Winter Fog Photography — Mikko Lagerstedt

    The Art Of Capturing Winter Fog Photography — Mikko Lagerstedt



    My favorite thing about photography is that you don’t always have to travel far to capture unique photographs. In this week’s tutorial, I talk about capturing fog in winter and how it can add a sense of mystery and atmosphere to your photos. This is the ultimate guide to capturing winter fog photographs.

    Whether a thin layer of mist hovering over a frozen lake or a thick fog enveloping a forest, fog can transform a mundane scene into something magical. In this tutorial, I show you how to capture stunning winter landscapes with mist, from finding the right location to choosing the right time of day and experimenting with compositions.

    Find the right location

    Fog can be elusive, so it’s essential to find a place where it is likely to appear. Look for areas with low-lying valleys, rivers, or lakes. These areas are more prone to fog because the cool air tends to sink and settle in these areas. Look for locations where the fog is likely to accumulate, such as near water, valleys, or low-lying areas.

    1. Look for forecasts of foggy conditions, especially in the early morning or late evening when the air is cooler, and the humidity is higher. You can also check the humidity and dew point, as the fog is more likely to form when the air is saturated with moisture.

    2. Pay attention to the wind direction. Fog is more likely to form in areas with calm winds. Look for locations where the wind is calm or where the wind is blowing away from the area you want to photograph.

    3. Look for locations with interesting features that can add depth and interest to your photos, such as trees, buildings, or other landmarks. Consider using these elements to create leading lines or to add a sense of scale to your photos.

    4. Fog can be unpredictable, so it’s a good idea to visit your location at different times to see if the fog appears. This will also give you the opportunity to experiment with different lighting conditions and compositions.

    5. The seaside can be an excellent place to capture fog in the Winter. The warm seawater and temperature drop can create a massive cloudlike fog.





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  • The Art of Night Photography — Mikko Lagerstedt

    The Art of Night Photography — Mikko Lagerstedt



    I hope you are having a wonderful Summer. Even though I love summer, I find it challenging for photography. I have never been a big fan of the midnight sun or bright nights. The mist is something I find inspiring to photograph, yet there are only a handful of mornings when there is some mist in the summer. And as soon as the nights get darker and colder, I find myself inspired to go out and photograph. So for the upcoming dark season, I started writing a comprehensive and inspiration-filled tutorial about night photography. I hope you enjoy it.

    As someone who has spent quite a few nights photographing different views, I find night photography fascinating and inspiring. As I was writing this post with the amount of knowledge I’ve gathered, I felt I needed to put this into an eBook, but then I thought to share it on my blog. If you enjoy my posts, you can support me by sharing this article or even buying me a coffee to keep me recharged and continue writing!

    At night, our surroundings transform into a different kind of beauty. The sky becomes a vast canvas of stars, the moon casts a gentle glow, and the aurora comes alive in a luminous dance of lights and shadows. These mesmerizing views can be captured, making night photography a captivating genre full of creative opportunities and unique challenges.

    The journey to night photography is planning, patience, and learning. It’s also understanding the nuances of light and darkness and mastering the technical aspects of long-exposure photography. The night presents a different kind of quiet and solitude, allowing introspection and creativity.

    This tutorial explores my journey in night photography and guides those who wish to venture into this fascinating genre. Check out my Star Photography Masterclass eBook if you want to dive deeper into night photography and editing.

    In this tutorial, we go into various parts of night photography, from capturing Milky Way and moon to vertoramas night. I’ll share the techniques, equipment, and settings I’ve found most effective for capturing stunning nighttime images.

    Throughout this post, I challenge you to remember that photography is not just about capturing a scene; it’s about conveying a feeling and telling a story through your lens. The night reveals mystery, tranquility, and natural beauty, and I hope my experiences and insights inspire and guide you in creating unique stories under the stars.

    Here are a few other night tutorials I’ve written before:

    Additionally, I have written the Star Photography Masterclass eBook, which includes more details about my process.

    1. The Magic of the Night Sky

    It is truly unique how the sky presents remarkable spectacles every night. There is always something captivating to observe, from stars and planets to the moon. Of course, those bloody clouds can block the views, but it’s part of the game.

    Sometimes, we are blessed enough to witness extraordinary events like the Northern Lights or meteor showers. Although capturing these breathtaking sights through photography can be rewarding, it takes expertise and a lot of patience.

    Planning

    Photographing the night sky starts with planning. Unlike other genres of photography, where spontaneity can lead to the best shots, night sky photography demands careful thought and preparation. The key factors to consider include the weather, moon phase, light pollution, and the position of celestial bodies. Clear skies are ideal for capturing stars, while the moon’s phase can significantly affect your scene’s lighting. Light pollution can hinder your ability to capture the fainter stars, so venturing away from city lights is often necessary. Finally, knowing the position of celestial bodies can help you plan your composition. There are various apps available that can help you with these aspects of planning. PhotoPills, TPE and Stellarium, are great tools to use.

    Camera Settings

    The next step is understanding the crucial camera settings for night sky photography. Night photography is a game of light – or, more accurately, the lack of light. Because of this, you’ll need to adjust your camera settings to capture as much light as possible. This means shooting in Manual mode and understanding the “Exposure Triangle” – the relationship between aperture, shutter speed, and ISO.

    Shutter speed is critical in night sky photography. Your aperture should be as comprehensive as possible to allow maximum light into the lens. For most lenses, this will be between f/2.8 and f/4. A common rule for shooting stars without creating star trails is the ‘500 Rule’: Divide 500 by your lens’ focal length to determine the longest exposure time before stars begin to blur due to the Earth’s rotation. However, this rule isn’t infallible and may require some adjustments based on your specific camera and lens combination.

    ISO settings can be tricky. A high ISO increases the sensor’s sensitivity to light, which is beneficial in low-light conditions. However, pushing the ISO too high can result in a noisy image. Start with an ISO setting around 1600 – 6400 and adjust based on the results you’re getting. I might go as high as 8000 ISO in complete darkness.

    Focus

    Focusing at night can be challenging, as autofocus systems often struggle in low light. A common technique is manually focusing on a bright star or distant light. Some photographers use the infinity (∞) symbol on their lens as a starting point, fine-tuning from there.

    Try different compositions, play with settings, and, most importantly, take the time to enjoy the process. The night sky is a fascinating subject that rewards patience and curiosity. So, step out into the night, and gaze upwards.





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