برچسب: Use

  • Want To Use Sunlight Creatively In Your Photography – Check Out These Resources

    Want To Use Sunlight Creatively In Your Photography – Check Out These Resources

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    Sunlight is the best light for photography because it is the only natural light available for us during the day time and at night we also have the moonlight to capture moonlit landscapes. Using natural light in photography can be the best way to make use of available light and it costs nothing. When there are unfavourable light conditions natural light can always be manipulated to our liking with a good understanding of how light works.

    Here are some resources that will help you to use sunlight creatively in your photography.

    Photo by Samson Katt

    Lens flare is something that most lens manufacturers tend to minimise when manufacturing lenses, but it is also something that can give a cinematic and dreamy look to a shot or footage if used well. Usually when backlighting your subjects, it becomes almost impossible to eliminate lens flare if the sunlight is falling straight on the lens. So this article talks about how you can embrace lens flare and control it.

    Photo by Omar Prestwich

    Backlighting is a very beautiful way to illuminate your subjects because of the stunning rim light that can make your subject’s outline glow. Depending on how you backlight your subject, you may come across a bit of lens flare and this can be used creatively in your photography. This article provides five simple ways to use lens flare for creative photography.

    Note: If you wish to reduce lens flare, check out this article – How To Reduce Lens Flare

    Photo by Sheen

    You may have seen those stunning photos where the sunlight may look like starburst. Did you know that it is very easy to capture starbursts in your photo by just setting your camera’s aperture and/or moving around to position the sunlight in a certain way? This article discusses two easy ways to capture brilliant starbursts in your photographs. Here is another article if you wish to read more – How To Create A Starburst Effect In Photographs

    Photo by Panoramas

    We all know that most of the time, shooting into the sun, and exposing for the sun will give us silhouettes. Silhouettes are beautiful if shot well, but it is not always intentional. There are times when you want to shoot into the sun for dreamy images especially when shooting portraits. Instead of a silhouette, you will want to capture details in the photo and this article discusses that.

    Photo by Ben Kelsey

    Silhouettes are beautiful and dramatic if shot well. In order to capture silhouettes, you need to shoot into the light. To capture compelling silhouettes, you need to choose your subjects and the background wisely. This article discusses the secrets to capture effective silhouettes.

    Photo by Kristian Saks

    We have commonly heard about star trails in photography, but did you know that with some creative effort, you can also capture sun trails? Solargraphy is a long exposure technique where a pinhole camera is use to capture sun’s trails over a period of few weeks to months on black and white photographic paper. Check out this article for some sun trail images and an overview of the process.

    Photo by Jason Row

    When we think of capturing sunrises or sunsets, many photographers are geared towards capturing the sun in an open landscape, which can be exciting at first but can quickly become boring. If you look and compose these shots creatively, by paying attention to the elements in the scene and by carefully choosing the foreground and middle ground, these sunset and sunrise shots can be captured creatively and this article talks about just that.

    Photo by Johannes Plenio

    Sunlight hits differently during different times of the day and as photographers we need to be looking at how light illuminates the elements in front of us and capture it in creative ways. One of the most common subjects of photography is the sunset and rather capturing a boring snapshot, this article discusses five easy tips to improve your sunset shots.

    Photo by Dawid Zawiła

    Sunsets are magical and they most of the time lend a dreamy atmosphere in areas where the light falls. Sometimes even the light through a cloud opening can be very beautiful with a spot of light illuminating the area where it falls, leaving the other places look dramatic. This article will help you capture sunsets with an ethereal effect.

    Further Resources



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  • Cutting The Cord – X Ways To Use Wireless in Your Photography

    Cutting The Cord – X Ways To Use Wireless in Your Photography

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    We are all used to wireless Internet. It’s been around in one form or another for 25 years and pretty much every connected household will have a Wi-Fi capable router. However, many of us might not realize that modern cameras also have a number of wireless capabilities that can enhance our workflow or allow us to capture unique images.

    Today we are going to cut the cord and take a look at some of the many ways that we can utilize wireless connections in our photography.

    Ethernet cables in the back of a router
    Wifi and BLuetooth has reduced our dependance on wires. By Jonathon on Unsplash

    Ways of Cutting The Cord

    There are actually a number of ways for creating a wireless connection in your camera. This will obviously depend on the camera specification but these are the most common ways.

    • WiFi – In this mode you connect your camera to your local Wifi network. You will need to search for your network then enter your WiFi password. For security reasons it’s best limited to a home, well secured, WiFi network and not open source free WiFi. However if you are looking to have WiFi connections in the field you can buy portable hubs. These are often used to connect multiple devices to 4/5G data whilst traveling.
    • Bluetooth – Many cameras now come with a version of Bluetooth for short range wireless connectivity. As Bluetooth has evolved it has gained more and more capabilities, making it increasingly useful in cameras.
    • On camera adapters – These adapters are most commonly attached to the hot shoe and connected to a camera port via a shot cable. They allow for the wireless connection of more complex peripherals.

    Those are the primary wireless connections that our camera may be able to make. But what can we do with them? Let’s find out,

    Bluetooth Wireless to OEM Smartphone App

    The most common wireless connection we will make with our cameras is to connect to the manufacturer’s dedicated app on a smartphone. Mainly connected through Bluetooth, these apps have varying degrees of capability and usability.

    Some of the functions might include –

    • Remote viewing and shutter triggering.
    • The ability to change camera settings remotely – usually this is limited to exposure controls and sometimes focus points.
    • GPS locations gathering – many cameras do not yet have GPS built in, but some apps can geolocate the camera’s position using the smartphone’s internal GPS.
    • Image transfer to a device – apps can often wirelessly transfer images from the camera to a smartphone, tablet or computer over Bluetooth. Whilst useful in the field, it can be a slow and sometimes unreliable process.
    • Send images to the cloud – usually the OEM’s own cloud server but sometimes sites such as Dropbox or Google Drive
    Wireless connection screen on a Fujifilm camera
    Most modern cameras can connect to Bluetooth and Wifi. By Jason Row Photography

    Manufacturer apps can be a useful way to wirelessly connect your camera. However as they are provided free, often they can be a little clunky, limited or even unreliable. For some cameras there may be third party, paid apps that do a better job.

    Bluetooth to External Accessories

    The increasing capability of Bluetooth has led to the ability for cameras to connect wirelessly to peripherals. The most obvious example of this is connecting the camera to a gimbal via Bluetooth.

    With gimbals, you are able to control the camera directly from an interface on the gimbal itself. Controls might include, triggering the shutter/record button, focussing the camera and even controlling some aspects of the exposure.

    Other uses include connecting hotshoe mounted wireless adapters to a smartphone. Typically this might be a wireless flash trigger that can be controlled from your phone.

    Many printers these days are wireless and can easily connect to a camera directly. You can send images straight from your camera to the printer, without the need to import them to a laptop.

    As Bluetooth is a relatively low powered wireless connection, any peripherals will need to be in close proximity to the camera.

    A Rode Wireless Go II microphone system connected to camera
    The Wirelss Go II system is a good example of cutting the cord. By Jason Row Photography

    Wireless Tethering

    Tethering is the ability to connect our camera directly to our computer, either a desktop or laptop. In wired form it has been around since the early days of digital cameras. However in recent years, it has become increasingly wireless. Mainly this is done over Wifi as it has a better range.

    Why would we need to tether our cameras? The most common use is in a studio environment. A photographer can be shooting whilst the camera is simultaneously downloading the image to an editor. This can greatly speed up the workflow in busy studios.

    Tethering can also allow the photography to see the live image on a large, color calibrated screen. This allows them to make minute adjustments to exposure, color and even focus.

    Recent developments in wireless tethering have allowed our stills cameras to be adapted as high quality webcams. With the advent of video conferencing, especially during the pandemic, this has allowed for much higher video quality in calls.

    Wireless Adapters

    Some more complex wireless photographic systems require specialist adaptors that attach either to the camera’s hot shoe or baseplate. The most common applications for these are in remote photography and flash triggers.

    The simplest form of remote photography will be a wireless shutter/intervalometer. This will allow the photographer to remotely control and trigger the camera from a short distance away. These types of remotes are often used in long exposure and time-lapse photography. There are also often much cheaper third party options available for OEM models .

    Man shooting camera on tripod persched on a high rock
    Wireless remotes allow you to safely step away from the camera. By Blake Cheek on Unsplash

    A more complex type of remote trigger system involves motion detection to trigger the camera. These are often used in camera traps for wildlife photography and research but also, increasingly in sports photography.

    The other main use is to trigger complex flash set ups. A wireless adapter is connected to the hot shoe where it talks to the camera flash dedication module. This adapter is wirelessly connected to multiple flash units and even smartphone apps. The system allows the photographer to minutely control the power output of each flash unit to finely tailor the lighting on the subject.

    Another form of wireless adapter is one that connects to the camera baseplate. These are often OEM models that allow for ultra fast transfer of images to remote computers. Typically these are used in sports photography where images need to be online within seconds of being taken.

    These are just some of the very powerful ways we can wirelessly control our cameras. From simple image transfer to capturing endangered species without encroaching on their habitat, wireless photography has become a powerful tool – one that is almost universally available.

    Do you use wireless for your photography? Feel free to share your experiences in the comments section below. We would love to know!

    Further Reading



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  • How to use crop modes on your full frame digital camera.

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    The reality of the world is that images are almost always cropped from what they were in camera no matter how we share them. This is largely due to the constraints of mobile phones where wide aspect ratio images can be hard to view on phones when the phone is held in portrait mode.

    The weird thing is that every website or app is a little bit different. Some sites force your images into their own highly restricted crop such as Instagram, and some sites like Flickr don’t care what crop is used. The main concern for using either of those services is how people are most likely to view your images which as far as I know is still a mobile device.

    To help photographers deal with this, did you knot that most (if not all) full frame 35mm digital cameras have built in “crop modes” which apply a digital crop to your image in camera?

    For example, my camera will shoot in 4 different crop modes (also called aspect ratios). It will shoot in a 4:3 aspect ratio which is the old TV standard for HD television. It will shoot in 1:1 format which is a square format used as we all know on Instagram. It will shoot in 16:9 which is the modern standard for television screens, computer monitors, and many TV shows. Take a look at the comparisons below to get more of an idea of how these different formats relate to each other.

    When using these alternate aspect ratios the RAW image remains unaffected. After opening the RAW files in Lightroom a crop will be automatically applied to the image but you can just remove the crop and voila, you’re back to having a full frame image again. If shooting JPG the final image is cropped and the 35mm full frame image can’t be recovered.

    Since the RAW file retains the 35mm full frame image a different aspect ratio can be used as a bit of a cheat to help avoid framing mistakes. Say you’re the type who tends to shoot with a tilt or off to the right all the time, or maybe you tend to shoot with the subject low or high and cut off people’s feet. If you’re one of those types then using one of these alternate aspect ratios can force you to frame your images better.

    For instance, if you want to make sure you always have room on the sides of your images, you can use the 4:3 crop to force yourself to frame a little wider on your subject. This might be especially useful if you’re shooting fast action such as sports and you want to make sure that there is room in the image to get a nice frame around your subject for publication.

    For instance, if I was shooting baseball or basketball where there is usually a focus on what a single player is doing, I might choose to shoot in RAW with the 1:1 crop active. This would force me to put the player close to the center of the frame at all times.

    Think of it as a way of making a repetive job a little easier on yourself and you might start to see the benefits of using different crop ratios when you’re taking pictures.

    It would be really cool if the camera allowed me to create a couple custom crop ratios for all the different websites out there as well, but, I haven’t heard of a camera that can do that yet.

    The R5 can also shoot with a full APS-C crop. Below is a comparison of the full frame area vs the APS-C area.

    If you’re far away from the subject, say a bird or other kind of wildlife, then shooting with an APS-C crop not only saves some file size but it can help the photographer get better framing for their final images. It also allows the R5 to work a little more seamlessly with other APS-C cameras if other people happen to be using those.

    Despite all this, many if not most photographers will immediately ask why anyone would throw out all those pixels that they paid so much money for in a full frame camera. Well, they honestly have a good point and it’s why I rarely to never use APS-C crop on my camera. For one, while the APS-C crop does offer some logic, it’s really better to use a longer focal length to achieve precise framing. On the R5 a full APS-C crop is still 17.2 megapixels which isn’t too far off from actual crop sensor cameras that are often around 24 megapixels. But it is a far cry from the 45 megapixels of the R5’s full frame sensor. Bottom line: going to APS-C on the R5 throws out more than half the resolution and that would be true with any FF camera that offers the ability to shoot in crop mode.

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  • How to Use the Photoshop Magic Wand Tool

    How to Use the Photoshop Magic Wand Tool

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    Photoshop’s Magic Wand Tool: You’ve definitely heard of it and, depending on how much you use Photoshop in your day-to-day, you may have even used it.

    Learn what the Magic Wand Tool is and how to select and mask in Photoshop with it. This Photoshop masking tutorial will turn you into a pro in no time.

    The Photoshop Magic Wand Tool is a quick and easy way to select and mask certain portions of an image, giving you the ability to alter one part of your image while leaving other parts intact. One of the most common uses of this tool is to swap out or remove the background of a product photo, leaving the subject of the image in place. 

    Related: Clipping Path vs. Masking: What’s the Difference?

    The Magic Wand Tool works by selecting an area of solid color within an image. Once your selection is made, the Magic Wand Tool gives you multiple options for refining that selection. 

    The Magic Wand Tool is a go-to tool when you want to display a product in various settings by showing it against different backgrounds, or when you want to remove a background altogether so your product stands on its own.

    This is often the case for marketplaces like Amazon or eBay, which have product photo requirements of their own that outline the approved backgrounds your images can have.

    Tutorial: Learn how to create a ghost mannequin in Photoshop

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_y3vFhp_Bs

    For the following tutorial, we’ll be working with this photo of a soccer player. You’ll learn how to remove the background from the player using the Magic Wand Tool, so that you can later put the player into different scenes. The Magic Wand Tool is a great option for removing backgrounds on photos with a mostly solid background.

    soccer player photo with black background, standing on grass

    Step 1: Unlock the background and select the Magic Wand Tool

    Before you can use the Magic Wand Tool, you’ll need to make sure your layers are set up correctly. Go to your Layers panel, located by default in the lower right-hand corner of Photoshop 2024’s application window. If you don’t see the Layers panel, you can bring it forward by choosing Window > Layers from the dropdown menu at the top of the application window.

    Within the Layers panel, double click on the Layer entitled Background.

    Layers pop-up menu from Photoshop, showing Background layer

    A pop-up window will appear, prompting you to rename the layer “Layer 0.” Click OK.

    New Layer pop-up menu from Photoshop, showing Layer 0 with a red circle over the OK button

    Within Adobe Photoshop 2024, choose the Magic Wand Tool from the Toolbar. By default, the Toolbar is placed to the left of the application window. The Magic Wand Tool may be hidden behind the Object Selection Tool or Quick Selection Tool.

    Photoshop menu showing where the Magic Wand Tool is located

    Note: To select any tool that is hidden “behind” another tool, choose the tool that is in front, and then hold the mouse button until other tools are visible. Then, select the visible tool you need.

    Save time and outsource it: Our background removal services start at $0.49/image

    Step 2: Select the solid areas of the background using the Magic Wand Tool

    There are several different ways to use the Magic Wand Tool to remove a background. We’ll start with the simplest method and work our way to more advanced methods as we refine our selection.

    When you click on a portion of your image using the Magic Wand Tool, the tool selects the pixel you selected along with adjacent pixels of the same (or similar) colors. 

    Once you have the Magic Wand Tool selected, you’ll see several different options in the Options Bar at the top of the screen. You can adjust the Tolerance of the Magic Wand Tool here. The higher the Tolerance, the more similarly colored pixels will be selected alongside the pixel you select with the tool.

    Photoshop main menu showing Tolerance at 0

    For this example, we will keep the Tolerance at 10.

    Click somewhere within the background of the image. The Magic Wand Tool will create a selection of all contiguous portions of your image that are roughly the same color as the background portion you selected.

    soccer player standing on grass with black background and checked lines around the black background border

    The Magic Wand Tool did a relatively decent job, but there are some portions of the background (such as between the player’s legs and under his right arm” that are not selected.

    To select areas of the background that did not get selected, hold down the SHIFT key and click within those areas that need to be selected. Holding SHIFT allows you to add to the existing selection without deselecting anything.

    soccer player with black background standing on grass and the borders of the athlete and the background are outlined

    Step 3: Select other portions of the background and foreground

    The ground in this photo is not a solid color like the background. It is, however, all varying shades of green. In order to select an area that is all about the same color but has a lot of detail, we need to adjust the Tolerance of the Magic Wand tool to a higher value. In this example, we’ve set the Tolerance to 50 and selected the grassy ground area of the photo.

    soccer player standing on grass with black background and everything is outlined and starting to be edited

    The results are less than perfect, but if we were to make the Tolerance much higher, we might accidentally select portions of the player’s legs.

    To smooth out the selection, choose Select > Modify > Smooth… from the dropdown menu at the top of the application window.

    Photoshop editing window showing how to Modify and Smooth your photo

    In the Dialog Box that appears, set the smooth value to something large enough to smooth out the edges of the selection but small enough to keep the integrity of the selection’s outline. For this example, we’ll set the value to 5.

    Photoshop Smooth Selection pop-up window, with 5 pixels set as the Sample Radius

    Click OK.

    The selection now looks almost close to perfect. Almost.

    soccer player standing on grass with black background and everything is outlined to be edited in Photoshop

    Step 4: Create a mask

    Select the inverse of your current selection by choosing Select > Inverse from the dropdown menu or by typing SHIFT + CTRL + I (SHIFT + COMMAND + I on a Mac).

    Photoshop editing, showing the menu that has the Inverse option

    Now, your subject is selected (instead of your background).

    Next, go to Select > Modify > Contract… to tighten the edges of the selection. This is to compensate for any artifacts that may have appeared in the selection when we smoothed it earlier.

    Photoshop editing options and menus showing Modify > Contract…”> <p>In the dialog box that appears, set a Contract value to something between 1 and 4 pixels. The amount you set it to will vary depending on the image you are working with. In this example, I’ve set the value to 3.</p> <img class=

    Click OK.

    In your Layers panel, look for the Mask icon at the bottom of the panel. It will look like a black rectangle with a white circle inside of it.

    Photoshop editing showing Layers and Mask options

    With Layer 0 selected, click on the Mask icon. You will now see your subject isolated against a transparent background.

    soccer player image being edited in Photoshop, showing with a transparent background

    We’re almost there, but there are a few things we need to fix before we’re done.

    Step 5: Clean up the selection using the mask

    As advanced as Photoshop 2024 is, nothing can match the human touch for perfecting a selection. In order to finalize your image, you will need to use your Brush Tool, and your judgment, to modify and perfect certain areas of your selection.

    In Layer 0 of your Layers Panel, make sure you have the new layer Mask selected. When the Mask is selected, you’ll see a small, black outline around the Mask. Look closely as it’s a little hard to see.

    Photoshop Layers menu showing different layers

    Next, select your Brush Tool from the Toolbar to the left of the application window. In the Options Bar at the top of the application window, you can set the width and hardness of your brush.

    If you have correctly selected the Mask icon in Layer 0, then the Foreground and Background colors in your Toolbar will be black and white. When white is the Foreground color, you can “paint back” portions of your masked image. When black is in the Foreground, you remove areas of your selection and they become masked.

    Photoshop editing screen with mask icon layers features

    For instance, in our example image, certain portions of the player’s sleeves disappeared when we created our initial selection. Therefore, using the Brush Tool, we can “paint back,” or add those portions of the sleeve back in.

    refining armpit edit details in Photoshop

    Changing the size of the brush and switching between a white foreground and a black foreground, fix any edges of your selection that need finessing.

    Other ways to select and mask in Photoshop 2024

    Photoshop 2024 also offers another option for Selecting and Masking that may or may not be easier for you. Let’s start with the original image again to learn this second method.

    When your Magic Wand Tool is selected, you’ll notice there are some selection options available in the Options Bar at the top of the application window. At the far right of the bar, click Select and Mask….

    select and mask menu from Photoshop

    A new window will open showing most of the image erased. Don’t worry–the image is still there; it’s just been “masked.”

    At the top of the screen, click the button that says Select Subject.

    Photoshop menu showing select subject

    Photoshop will attempt to interpret and select the subject of your image. Though, as you can see in the image below, the results are not always perfect.

    Photoshop editing screen with different options

    At the top of the window, you will find Add and Subtract buttons. These work to add to your selection or subtract from it using the modification tools on the left-hand side of the window. You can also control the size of the tool.

    list of Photoshop tools and also the menu

    On the left side of the window are tools you can use to modify the selection. These tools are rather intuitive to use. 

    The first tool, the Quick Selection Tool, allows you to grab whole blocks of color at once. This is a good tool to use to “paint back” the ball in the image.

    Photoshop editing of a soccer player holding a ball

    The next tool, Refine Edge Tool, helps when defining or redefining the edge of your selection. Below that is the Brush Tool, which works just like the regular Brush Tool in Photoshop (and like the Eraser Tool when the Subtract button is activated). 

    Photoshop editing a person's arm

    The Object Selection Tool tries to figure out where certain objects begin and end in your image, the Lasso Tools allow you to freeform select areas of the image, and the Hand Tool and Zoom Tool help you navigate around the image as you work to refine the selection.

    Once you’re satisfied with the selection, click OK. You will see that nothing has changed in your original image, but there’s a “marching ants” selection around your subject.

    soccer player standing on grass with black background and everything is outlined to be edited in Photoshop

    Next, just like in the first method listed above, you’ll need to make your Background Layer into an unlocked Layer 0, and create a Layer Mask.

    soccer player holding a ball, cut out on a transparent background

    Whichever way you choose to create your selection, you now have your subject isolated from its background, and you can place your subject into whichever new setting works best for your branding needs.

    Learning how to select and mask in Photoshop with the Magic Wand Tool is helpful because it’s a technique you can apply to a range of photos—sports, product, ecommerce, portraits, headshots, and more. Here are a just a few scenarios where it comes in handy:

    • Show your subject in various environments. Help your audience connect with your subject emotionally by seeing it in a beautiful or familiar setting when changing the background. This can also help you prepare the image for different target segments, so you can swap out backgrounds that make more sense for your audience.
    • Select your subject so you adjust its size or color without altering the setting in which it has been photographed. This means you can show different color variants for your product without having to take multiple photos.
    • Remove the background from a photo so your subject stands out on its own.
    • Create a white background image so you can list products on third-party marketplaces, like Amazon or eBay.

    Not up for the tedious task yourself? Get a quote for your background removal needs

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