برچسب: Look

  • A Fresh Look at Berlin Through the Sigma 12mm F1.4 DC Contemporary Lens

    A Fresh Look at Berlin Through the Sigma 12mm F1.4 DC Contemporary Lens

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    Committing to a single focal length for an entire trip can feel risky. Combined with a Fujifilm X-T5 camera, the Sigma 12mm F1.4 DC | Contemporary became my only lens for exploring Berlin, a decision that completely changed how I approached photographing the city.


    Wide-Angle Perspective

    The 12mm focal length (18mm equivalent on typical APS-C sensor) provides an expansive view that suits Berlin’s architecture perfectly. Standing in front of the Paul Loebe Building or exploring Museum Island, I could capture entire structures without stepping into traffic or climbing onto benches. The ultra-wide perspective includes context, the street level activity, neighboring buildings, and urban environment that can make these spaces feel alive rather than sterile.

    Unlike fisheye lenses, the 12mm F1.4 DC | Contemporary maintains relatively straight lines, especially through the center of the frame. Barrel distortion exists but stays controlled, reading as natural perspective rather than optical weirdness. This proved essential when photographing Berlin’s mix of architectural styles, from Bauhaus geometry to contemporary glass facades.

    Berlin’s architecture suddenly made more sense through this ultra-wide view. I wasn’t frantically stepping backward trying to fit everything in frame. The 99.6° angle of view gave me breathing room I didn’t know I needed. More importantly, it let me capture these massive structures while still including the human elements, the urban context that makes these buildings feel alive rather than just monuments.

    What surprised me most was how the focal length changed what I noticed. With a normal zoom, I’d instinctively frame tighter, focusing on specific architectural details or cropping out distracting elements. The 12mm F1.4 DC | Contemporary forced me to embrace everything in the scene like the messy power lines, construction scaffolding, the way modern glass facades reflect the older buildings across the street. Suddenly these “imperfections” weren’t distractions; they were part of the story.


    The Interior Advantage

    Berlin’s museums became my real testing ground. Anyone who’s tried photographing in galleries knows the struggle of dim lighting, mixed color temperatures, and the constant balance between capturing the space and the art within it. The F1.4 aperture wasn’t just convenient here; it was essential.

    Museums present a unique challenge for ultra-wide photography — you’re often working in tight spaces while trying to capture installations that are meant to be experienced at scale. In Hamburger Bahnhof, this became immediately apparent. The 12mm F1.4 DC | Contemporary allowed me to step back just enough in cramped gallery spaces to include entire large-scale pieces without having to resort to multiple shots or awkward positioning.

    Navigating those dramatic transitional spaces between bright exhibition halls, I found myself shooting wide open more often than not. The lens handled it surprisingly well. I’d expected some chromatic aberration shooting at F1.4, especially with the harsh spotlighting they use to illuminate art pieces, but it stayed remarkably controlled. The color rendition stayed neutral too, which mattered more than I initially thought. Museum lighting is notoriously tricky, with different galleries using different temperature bulbs.

    The highlights of the day were being able to capture Klára Hosnedlová’s installation for the CHANEL Commission, and Delcy Morelos’ exhibition, in their full scale with the 12mm focal length. These massive contemporary pieces are designed to envelope viewers, but photographing them usually means stepping so far back that you lose the sense of scale and presence. The 12mm let me include the entire installation while still showing enough of the surrounding space to convey how visitors interact with the work.


    After Dark

    Berlin at night is a different city entirely. The cold war-era buildings take on this almost cinematic quality under street lighting, while the modern glass towers become these glowing monoliths. This is where the F1.4 maximum aperture really earned its keep.

    I spent an evening wandering around Kreuzberg and Mitte neighborhoods, shooting handheld as the light faded. With most lenses, I’d be reaching for a tripod by this point or pushing my ISO beyond what I’m comfortable with. The extra stop of light from the F1.4 kept my shutter speeds reasonable for handheld work, even as I tried to capture both the illuminated building facades and the ambient street lighting.

    There’s something satisfying about being able to work quickly and quietly in low light. No tripod setup, no waiting for crowds to clear, just walking and shooting. The lens let me capture those fleeting moments when the artificial lighting hits just right, or when someone walks through the frame at exactly the right spot to provide scale.

    Although it’s not the most lightweight travel lens, it was a lot less noticeable on my shoulder than the normal gear I use for commercial photography, even after a full day walking Berlin’s Museum Island. It’s so nice to have the right gear that’s easy to travel with. But what occurred to me when I edited these images was that I was essentially carrying two specialized lenses in one. An ultra-wide for architecture and a low-light specialist for interiors. There’s something liberating about committing to one focal length and one lens for an entire trip.


    The Distortion Reality

    Ultra-wide lenses and distortion go hand in hand, and the 12mm F1.4 DC | Contemporary definitely has it, of course. But it’s controlled distortion, not the crazy funhouse effect you get from fisheye lenses. Straight lines stay straight, especially through the center of the frame. The geometric distortion is there, but it reads as perspective rather than optical weirdness.

    This actually worked in my favor when shooting Berlin’s mix of architectural styles. The slight barrel distortion added drama to those sweeping shots of modern museum buildings without making them look unnatural. And when I got close to interesting textures or design details, the distortion helped emphasize the three-dimensional quality of the surfaces.


    Different Tools, Different Stories

    Looking back through the images from this trip, I realize how much the lens shaped what I photographed and how I saw the city. With a standard zoom, I would have shot tighter compositions, focused more on isolated architectural elements, and probably missed a lot of the contextual details that make these spaces feel lived-in.

    The 12mm F1.4 DC | Contemporary forced me to include more of the surrounding environment, to think about how buildings relate to their neighborhoods, and how people move through these spaces. It’s the difference between photographing architecture and photographing urban life that happens to include interesting buildings.

    Would I recommend committing to a single ultra-wide for an entire trip? It depends on what kind of photographer you are. If you like the safety net of a zoom range, this approach might feel limiting. But if you’re interested in developing a more intentional approach to composition, in really learning to see at a specific focal length, there’s something valuable about the constraint.

    The Sigma 12mm F1.4 DC | Contemporary proved itself a capable travel companion in Berlin — sharp enough to capture the architectural details that matter, and fast enough to handle whatever lighting conditions the city threw at it. More than that, it showed me a different way of traveling.

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  • Making Your Sunrise/Sunset Shots Look Special

    Making Your Sunrise/Sunset Shots Look Special

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    Sunrises and sunsets are amongst the most emotive shots that we can take. Yet, we often end up disappointed by the end results. The problem is that it can be very difficult to scale down the natural beauty of a sunset into a single two dimensional image.

    The other issue with them is that social media is awash with them. Some are absolutely stunning but many are quite mediocre. This kind of desensitizes us to their majesty.

    Newcomers to photography, and even more experienced photographers, often repeat the same mistakes when shooting sunrises or sunsets, so today, we are going to take a look at how to make your sunrise or sunset shots look special.

    The Common Mistakes.

    The first and most common mistake is to just shoot the sunset. There is a temptation to simply point the camera at the sun and fire away. This is understandable because of how beautiful a good sunset can look in real life, however by ignoring the concepts of composition we end up with a bland image that will not inspire you to continue shooting.

    Another very common mistake is to simply place the sun dead centre of the frame within a landscape or seascape. Again this can make your image look boring and generic.

    Sunset off the coast of Norway
    Placing the sun dead centre can lead to boring images. By Jason Row Photography

    Lastly, relying on the camera’s metered exposure can also lead to disappointment. Although vastly improved in the digital era, camera’s exposure meters are still very much fooled by scenes that have a large area of light in them and will consequently often underexpose.

    Through this article we will take a look at how to counter these common mistakes and look at other ways to improve your sunrise and sunset photography.

    Give Yourself Time

    The problem with a lot of dawn or dusk images is that they tend to be more spontaneous than planned. Now clearly you cannot accurately plan for a spectacular sunset but you can plan to be in the right place at the right time and hope for good light.

    Sun rising behind Tower Bridge in London
    Planning is important in getting the right shot. By Jason Row Photography

    Good sunrises are particularly difficult to shoot unless you preplan a little. To get good, creative shots, you need to be relaxed, you need to have an understanding of your location and you also need a little luck. That will rarely happen if you just pull over in the car because the sunset looks amazing.

    The best dawn/dusk shots will come from places that you are familiar with and where you can spend 45 minutes or more preparing the shot, finding the best locations and angles. Once you have established the shot, you have time to concentrate on the exposure and getting the composition correct. Which leads us nicely to.

    Composition Rules Ok?

    As mentioned earlier, one of the major issues with many sunrise and sunset shots is they tend to solely concentrate on the sun. You can dramatically improve your shots by taking the mindset that the sunset is just the backdrop to your subject.

    What I mean by this is that you need a foreground interest as a counterpoint to your sunset. This can be anything from a classic silhouette of a person to rock pools on a beach. It can be the frame of a window or a single wind turbine in the distance.

    Sunrising behind St Mary's Lighthouse in North East England
    Do not ignore composition in your sunset images. By Jason Row Photography

    Even without some form of foreground interest you can still make your sunset shots look good. Place the sun on a third, either upper or lower and use the ground/sky as a counterpoint to it. Use any clouds in the sky, you can make them a major part of the composition with the sun to the left or right.

    By thinking of the sunset as the background not the subject you will soon find more creative ways to shoot.

    Create Mood and Emotion In Your Sunsets

    Sunsets don’t always have to be serene seascape style shots. They can be angry, perhaps a storm approaching, they can be frenetic, for example rush hour in a city.

    Identify that mood before you start shooting and you will find yourself further expanding it as the shoot continues.

    Again the actual sunset can take a backseat not only to the mood of the scene but also the subject that you choose within that scene. Getting there early will help you feel the mood and emotion of the scene before you start shooting.

    You should also consider whether the sun actually needs to be in the shot. The soft golden light of dawn or dusk will give your viewers all the information that they need about the time of day. Just hinting at the sun can give you a powerful and emotive image.

    Dawn in the Firth of Forth, Scotland
    Mood and emotion will elevate your sunset shots. By Jason Row Photography

    Nail The Exposure

    As we mentioned, one of the sources of disappointment in our sunset shots can often be attributed to incorrect exposure. Because the camera may have a tendency to underexpose, your sunset shots may appear darker than natural.

    Think carefully about your exposure. If your composition is one where the subject is going to be a silhouette, then that natural under exposure might be the way to go. However, if you want your subject to show some definition, illuminated by soft golden light then you might need to raise your exposure a stop or perhaps two.

    The exposure you choose will dramatically change the mood of your sunset. If you are in any doubt then shoot off a 5 image bracket with 1 stop differences.

    The sunsets behind the Palace of Westminster in London
    Don’t be afraid to bracket and use HDR. By Jason Row Photography

    Don’t Over Process

    Another tendency with cameras is to over correct the white balance. This is not an issue if we are shooting RAW, however it’s difficult to correct if we have used JPEG. The issue is that faced with a large block of yellow/red light, the camera’s colour meter will tend to swing more to blue on the Kelvin scale. This will tone down the natural looking colours of our sunset.

    Seeing this we often tend to over correct our sunset shot in post production. Adding unnatural amounts of red/yellow and excessive saturation.

    Golden dawn light around Durham Cathedral, North East England
    Including the sun, is not obligatory. By Jason Row Photography

    Rather than using colour controls in post, your first port of call should be the white balance slider. If your sunset looks a little cold, move the white balance toward the warmer end of the scale, that is higher degrees Kelvin. Try not to use auto adjust as you will find the same issue, the editing software will try to neutralize the warmth in the shot.

    Once you are happy that the sunset has a natural warmth, then you can start to add a little extra colour and saturation. The vibrance tool is actually preferable for this over the saturation slider, as it only enlivens areas with relatively low saturation.

    The sunrise and sunset are amongst the very best times of day for photography. By keeping in mind some of the suggestions we have made in this article, you should be able to improve the creativity of your dawn and dusk photographs.

    Further Reading



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  • Follow These Long Exposure Tutorials To Make Your Ordinary Images Look Extraordinary

    Follow These Long Exposure Tutorials To Make Your Ordinary Images Look Extraordinary

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    Long exposure photography is a genre where you intentionally increase the exposure time to blur certain parts of the image but there is also night sky photography or other night photography where long exposure can be made to capture as much light as possible. When you capture long exposure images depending on the time of the day and amount of light, you may need to increase the exposure times and sometimes use an ND or Grad-ND filter to lengthen the exposure times.

    Photo by Lopez Robin

    Besides using ND filters, you will also need accessories like a stable tripod and a remote release to avoid camera shakes. Long exposure photography can be applied to many genre of photography besides the landscape photography where this technique is more commonly used. In this article, we have put together a bunch of tutorials for you to get an understanding of long exposure photography and improve your skills.

    Photo by Gerald Berliner

    When capturing long exposure images, a few factors need to be kept in mind. The light in the location and how it is illuminating the subject, the time of day and what the end results would be, stabilising the camera, using the right settings based on the light and other elements, etc. Besides, you will need to use required accessories to get the best results. Check out these four easy to follow tips that will help make your long exposure photos successful.

    Photo by Nathan61

    If you are looking for a few more quick tips on capturing long exposure images, the above article has a few tips on the factors and settings you need to consider for good long exposure shots. There is also a useful chart that will help you to calculate your applied settings for normal light situations into the language of long-exposure photography.

    Image by BenFrantzDale 

    Capturing long exposure during the day time can be quite tricky because the light can be bright in most situations and you will need to cut down light based on how long you need the exposure time to be. This is where ND filters come in handy and they come in various strengths. Check out the above article to learn how to use an ND filter for day time long exposure photography.

    Here are some more handy tutorials:

    Photo by Jason Row

    Architectural elements can be great subjects in a long exposure photograph. If shot under the right light conditions and other elements in the frame like clouds or light trails architectural structures can lead to very interesting photographs. The above article is a quick guide on long exposure architectural photography.

    Photo by H Matthew Howarth

    Just like how you capture long exposure photographs during the day time, you can capture stunning long exposures at night too. Remember that you will definitely need a tripod and a shutter release to capture sharp images without any blur due to camera shake.

    Photo via Pixabay

    Night time photography can be interesting if you add a dynamic element to the frame. If you can safely photograph the light trails from traffic or from other interesting subjects like a carousel or a Ferris wheel, these can add visual interest and a story telling factor to the image. Here are some quick tips in the article above.

    Long exposure photography is so fascinating that it does not stop with capturing just light trails, moving water or clouds, star trails and so on, but can also be extended to capture sun trails. Here is an article that shares the work of photographer Kristian Saks and the process of how he captures these images.

    Photo by Federico Alegría

    Now if you are a street photographer, you are surely missing out on some creative photography if you do not capture long exposure street photos. Yes, long exposure is a great way to add a dynamic element to street photos and will help you to capture intriguing photos. The above article will help you with some tips to capture long exposure street photos.

    Photo by Jason Row

    There are times when we capture long exposure images that we think are technically perfect but the results may be very disappointing. The most common mistakes are camera shakes, colour shifts, noise, diffraction, internal reflection, etc. The article above will help you understand why these mistakes can happen and how you can rectify them.

    Photo by Diego Vitali

    Some situations will help some photographers capture long exposure images by just handholding their camera if they have a somewhat steady hand. But when you become quite serious about this craft and look to capture perfect and sharp photos, you will need to invest in some very essential gear. Here is what you need to capture the best long exposure shots both during the day and at night.

    Further Reading



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  • First Look: Exploring Patagonia with the Sigma 300-600mm F4 DG OS | Sports Lens

    First Look: Exploring Patagonia with the Sigma 300-600mm F4 DG OS | Sports Lens

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    As outdoor photographers, there are places in the world that beckon to us to explore their photographic wonders. The pull of exotic landscapes bathed in warm light, and huge swaths of wide open areas packed with an abundance of wildlife, are draws impossible to resist for inquisitive adventurers. One of the places at the top of my to-do list was the incomparable Patagonia region of southern Chile.

    There is so much to photograph and explore in Patagonia, so I decided to narrow my vision to Torres del Paine National Park, and more specifically, the wildlife that calls it home. Most prominent of these animals, and what truly piqued my interest, are the park’s famous pumas. With buy-in from local estancias (ranches) that border the park, the pumas have a massive area where there are free to be wild without persecution from hunting and trapping. Because of this, the puma population in Torres del Paine and the surrounding area is absolutely booming.


    The ultimate wildlife photography zoom lens

    My lens of choice for pumas, and all the wildlife I encountered, was the brand new Sigma 300-600mm F4 DG OS | Sports lens. This is a de-facto professional grade lens the likes of which have never been seen before and I put it to good use. In my time there, I saw 17 individual pumas over the course of about 25 encounters. As far as I know, this is not possible anywhere else in the world. That’s what makes this place so special. Of course not every encounter would result in photos but enough did that I was able to get plenty of great photos. In addition to pumas I was able to photograph Andean condors, grey foxes, rheas, an austral pygmy owl, black chested eagles, and of course plenty of guanacos.

    The 300-600mm F4 DG OS | Sports was absolutely perfect for photographing wildlife in the park. The optics are stunningly sharp with nice contrast and great color. The HLA autofocus motor is ultra fast, and when using Animal Eye AF in my camera, it locked on to my subject and consistently yielded professional results. The lens is big and fairly heavy, similar to 500mm and 600mm F4 primes from other lens makers. However, in direct comparisons to other photographers’ setups, mine was usually a bit smaller and lighter. I was able to hand hold the lens for numerous images, but I also had it mounted on a tripod for many of my photos and videos.

    One of my favorite features of the 300-600mm F4 DG OS | Sports is the fact that it’s a zoom that shoots like a prime. There were times when the pumas would come incredibly close, and while other photographers were forced to swap lenses to get the shot, I could simply zoom out! I also love the fast F4 constant aperture. I shot it wide open while recording video clips in pre-dawn light. For still images, the F4 aperture was wonderful for isolating my subjects are rally making them “pop” from their environments. The bottom line here is that you are really getting four ultra-quality F4 prime lenses in a single lens. Oh…and did I mention it’s half the price of one prime lens? Just incredible.

    Torres del Paine National Park is well known to landscape photographers for the combination of lustrous low-angle light of the southern latitudes and soaring rock spires of the Cuernos and Towers. While most of my efforts were focused on pumas, I had to get a few images of this iconic place. With the 300-600mm F4 DG OS | Sports, I had the versatility to try different compositions without moving or changing lenses, not to mention gorgeous compression for unique-looking landscape photos.


    My Sigma lens kit for travel and storytelling

    Flying halfway around the globe to one of the most photogenic places on earth, I’d be crazy not to also shoot some landscapes and culture. To help me tell those stories I brought a few of my favorite lenses: the Sigma 16-28mm F2.8 DG DN | Contemporary, 24-70mm F2.8 DG DN II | Art, and the 70-200mm F2.8 DG DN OS | Sports. This kit has traveled with me all over the world and images from them have been used for cover shots, features length editorial stories and major commercial ad campaigns. I trust this lens trio to get the job done beautifully and once again they handled everything I threw at them.

    Another highlight was a visit to Estancia San Louis. This is a working sheep ranch long owned by a local family. While there, one of the gauchos was rounding up some sheep and even showed us how he sheared them. The gaucho working his dogs and sheep with the Towers in the background made for some very classic images of Patagonia and was a blast to photograph.

    I booked my trip to Patagonia though Chile Nativo. Their intimate knowledge of the area was evident, and the glamping (fancy camping) at Riverside Camp was incredibly cool. My guide, Santiago, was super helpful and made finding the pumas and the landscape areas very easy. The team was great to work with, and if you want to go I would highly recommend them. To get there, I flew to Punta Arenas and rented a car. You could also fly into Puerto Natales, which is closer to Torres del Paine, but is quite a bit more expensive.


    Final thoughts

    Whether you go for wildlife, landscapes or general travel, a trip to Patagonian Chile is something every adventure photographer should put on their list. If your itinerary includes wildlife photography, consider bringing the Sigma 300-600mm F4 DG OS | Sports lens. For me, it was critical to getting my very best images. And bring the rest of your Sigma lenses to photograph the people and the views. You won’t regret it. If you have any questions feel free to reach out. Hope to see you out there!


    Explore Patagonia with Liam (Video)

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