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  • Are You Good, or Just Lucky?


     
    Every photograph I’ve ever made has been a lucky shot. The light was just right; without it, there’d be no mood in the image. The weather cooperated, or it didn’t, but in the end, the resulting rain or fog made for a much more visceral photograph. The elephants lined up just so, and I was lucky. That I even get to be in the extraordinary places I make my photographs is so, so lucky. Of course, I’m referring to the final images that get edited out from the sketches, developed, and printed. Many among the sketches are very unlucky, and still far more fail for reasons for which I have only myself to blame.

    Luck is underappreciated in conversations about creativity.  As a younger man, admitting that luck played a role in what I had made felt like giving away the credit; I had worked hard to get where I was, I had learned to use my gear, and I had anticipated the shot, so if someone implied that it was a “lucky shot” I was both offended and defensive. It has taken me some years to change that response to gratitude and to think differently about luck.

    It’s not a question of whether we credit our best work to either luck or skill but whether we’re open to taking advantage of it being both luck and skill. Creative work is a dance between you and the circumstances in which you do your work.


    As a photographer, artist, or human being, being creative is about responding to circumstance or luck. You’ve probably heard some version of “the more I practice, the luckier I get.” As aphorisms go, it certainly has a ring of truth to it, but it still feels a little disingenuous—like it’s not so much acknowledging the role of luck but claiming the credit. “I wasn’t lucky,” we say, “I was prepared.” Perhaps, but it wouldn’t be the worst thing in the world if we let happenstance have a moment in the spotlight.

    I’ve long been a proponent of being intentional in art-making and in life. In my early writing, I talked a lot about vision, which, depending on how you use the word, could probably be swapped out for “intent.” There’s great value in planning and forethought. Still, especially after making an unexpected shift into photographing wildlife, it’s been harder to kid myself about the serendipity on which I’ve been relying. It turns out being intentional in my work isn’t exclusive of sheer dumb luck.

    So, luck being what it is, why talk about it at all if we have no control over it? Acknowledging luck probably keeps us humble, and there’s value in that where being perceptive is concerned. But there’s more value in being truly awake to luck—even looking and waiting for it.

    The more you practice, the less likely it is that when luck does come, it will find you fiddling with your gear.

    The more practiced you are, the more intuitive your craft will be for you, and the easier you’ll settle on a pleasing composition, dial in an exposure that’s not merely correct but truly expressive, and anticipate the strongest moments. Making a photograph might be a dance with luck, but it’s still up to you to follow that lead and be responsive to it.  The more comfortable and practiced you are, the smoother that dance will be, and the better you’ll be able to improvise when your dance partner changes things up and your luck and circumstances go in a direction you didn’t expect, as things tend to do.

    But there’s something else—the blind spot that occurs when you get too self-assured and stop being aware of luck and the magic you can find if you’re awake and looking for it.  Almost every photograph I’ve ever made has a backstory that begins with my expectations and hopes—and ends somewhere else entirely, usually somewhere better and completely unexpected. I owe the credit to an openness to luck—and those crazy random happenstances. In most cases, I was looking or hoping for something else. Perhaps not something wildly different (though in some cases, that is certainly true), but very seldom does what I see in my mind’s eye match what I eventually see in my final picture, for which I am grateful. The best of my work has always been unexpected and is a creative response to that.

    If this is true for you, it pays to be careful what you look for and to be mindful of your expectations. Expectations focus us; they narrow our gaze and give us the patience to wait for the moments we anticipate. But they can also make us unobservant of everything else that is going on, stopping us from seeing what would be very lucky indeed if only we were open to it.

    The challenge of thinking or perceiving creatively as a photographer is being able to look for specifics without becoming oblivious to the unexpected.

    I have found it helpful to breathe. To loosen up a little. To put the camera down and look around. To sit back and watch what’s going on. To be aware of my thoughts and be present. How many times have I invested time and attention in one scene, waiting for the moment, waiting for things to pop, only to realize the real opportunity was in an entirely different direction? That the stronger photograph was begging me to pivot and reimagine things? It happens so often that I’ve become suspicious of my first instincts; second-guessing my expectations has become my (rather counterintuitive) modus operandi. You’ve got to trust your gut, but that doesn’t mean you can’t ask it to consider all of its options.

    You can’t photograph what you’re not open to seeing in the first place.  I never thought I’d say this, but our very specific vision as photographers can be our greatest liability as much as it can be our greatest asset, and sometimes more so if what we’re looking for (or expecting to see) blinds us to the unexpected.

    Spirit Bear (Kermode Bear), Great Bear Rainforest, British Columbia, Canada.

    Years ago, in the Great Bear Rainforest in British Columbia, we had been photographing a Kermode (or “spirit”) bear, an American black bear with a recessive gene that makes it white. We had waited for hours to photograph this bear, so we were thrilled when it briefly appeared. But then it was gone just as quickly as it had arrived, and with it went my hopes for the kind of photograph I’d worked so hard to make: a spirit bear fishing in the creek. Dejected, I sat on a rock and waited for the bear to return, feeling the muscles in my shoulders and neck tightening, fearful I had missed my chance and was wasting my time. The rain was only making things worse. And then I heard my guide, Tom, whispering my name. I was annoyed; he knew I was looking for a bear and didn’t want to divert my gaze. As I reluctantly turned to look at him, he made a gesture—a subtle upward glance with his eyes and a tilt of his head. And there, just a few feet above him, was our bear, sitting with its head on a log, watching me from high on the river bank. The resulting photograph pleases me immensely, never mind the magic of that unforgettable moment.

    I was looking so damn hard I wasn’t seeing. Being awake to luck isn’t the only thing; you’ve got to be there. If the strongest photographs happen at the most unexpected intersections of light, space, and time, then the longer you spend awaiting (and remaining open to seeing) those intersections, the better the chance you’ll be there when it happens.

    Yes, chance favours the prepared, but it also favours the present. Sit in one place long enough, revisit a subject often enough, and you will be luckier.

    You must be there long enough for things to happen, for the light to change, for you yourself to become more aware of these changes, and to develop interesting ideas about what you see. The more time you give it, the luckier you will be, but that time will also give you more chances to do something unexpected and to think differently about how you turn that luck into a photograph. At the risk of abusing the metaphor, it’s more time on the dance floor.

    I don’t pretend to have the creative process figured out; it remains mysterious, and I like the wonder that that instills in me. Yet, with each passing year, it’s a little less unpredictable, a little less scary. What I do know is that any creative effort, like making a meaningful photograph, happens in the liminal space between what we can and cannot control.  There is such freedom in this.

    The more willingly I relinquish the desire to control what I can’t and relax my grip on things, the more grateful I am for luck and the more likely I am to be both prepared and present when I turn and find it sitting there, head resting on a log, waiting for me.

    Are You Good or Just Lucky was originally published as In Praise of Luck and is an excerpt from my latest book,Light, Space & Time. You can find it here on Amazon or from your favourite bookstore. 

    For the Love of the Photograph,
    David





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  • Are LiDAR Systems on Cars Destroying Camera Sensors?

    Are LiDAR Systems on Cars Destroying Camera Sensors?


    There’s a bit of growing unrest among photographers on whether LiDAR systems that are being fitted in new cars are actually capable of destroying camera sensors.

    LiDAR systems are used by car manufacturers with self-driving cars to build 3D models of the surrounding environment so that the car knows where to steer.

    A thread on Reddit talks about how a car photographer had several cameras destroyed after doing a car photo shoot.

    What seems to be happening is that the laser from a LiDAR is too much for certain camera sensors to handle, and results in irreparable damage to those sensors.

    As you can see from the video below, it certainly seems to be the case that LiDARs are destroying sensors in some scenarios.

    But what is the nuance here?

    In the first video, it is unclear what type of camera is being used to show the damage being done.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AM6XWKTDezs

    You will notice in the second video that the gentleman has trouble trying to damage his phone camera, whereas the LiDAR does damage the older iPad camera sensor.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyqWoMLz9Eo

    Either way, it is clear that this doesn’t happen on every camera sensor every time it’s exposed to LiDAR lasers.

    It also becomes clear from the comments that using a filter such as a UV filter will not protect your camera sensor from such damage. UV filters are designed to protect from ultraviolet light around 400nm, whereas LiDAR light at around 905nm to 1550nm will pass straight through such protective filters.

    According to the gentleman in the second video, when he contacted Volvo about their LiDAR and the potential damage to camera sensors, they responded that they were aware of the situation and that people should be cautious about using cameras around LiDAR.

    Where do you think things go from here?





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  • 18 Photographs Of The Rainy Season That Are Artful And Dramatic

    18 Photographs Of The Rainy Season That Are Artful And Dramatic


    It is almost rainy season in most of the tropical and sub-tropical countries and it is one of those seasons that brings in respite from the summer heat, especially in the tropics. Some photographers worry about shooting in the rain, because they are concerned about their gears’ safety and also getting wet in the rain.

    Rain photography is magical and sometimes dramatic, and can be very rewarding of you take a few precautions when shooting in the rain. There are a lot of subjects and scenes that can be beautifully shot during the rain if one embraces the elements, understands light and focuses on the details.

    If you would love to understand the secrets of recognizing the right light, control it and manipulate it according to the situation you are shooting, we highly recommend you to check out the eBook “Understanding Light” by Photzy. This guide will uncover the secrets behind controlling the available light and will leave others wondering how you did it.

    Here are 18 photographs of the rainy season that can help you with some inspiration to shoot in the rain.

    Photo by Gil Ribeiro 
    Photo by Jusdevoyage
    Photo by Todd Diemer
    Photo by Jack Finnigan
    Photo by Makoto Tsuka
    Photo by Matteo Catanese

    There are many ways in which rain can be photographed. You can capture the stormy sky, reflections, puddles, even stay indoors and capture the falling rain. During this time, the light can be quite tricky but shooting from the right angle and perspective while also using the right camera settings can help you to capture better photos. We recommend you to check out this eBook “Understanding Light” by Photzy that has 155 pages of fast and easy learning, packed with illustrations, case studies and assignments to verify your knowledge.

    Photo by Urban Vintage
    Photo by  Imthiyas Iqbal 
    Photo by Hannah Domsic
    Photo by Jack Finnigan 
    Photo by Luca Bravo
    Photo by Michael Podger

    When out to photograph the rain, besides the grand scene in front of you, it is also good to focus on the details for some macro photography, patterns and textures. Also look for actions in the outdoors, like vehicles speeding, children splashing in the puddles, or dramatic skies. The colours can be rich, so if you work with the light, you are sure to come home with some great photographs. Check out “Understanding Light” by Photzy if you need to learn more about using light to your advantage in tricky situations.

    Photo by  Kevin Wang
    Photo by Isi Martínez
    Photo by Dan Calderwood 
    Photo by Rupert Britton
    Photo by Josh Hild 
    Photo by Richie Roberts

    Further Reading:





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  • Are old used digital cameras still good?

    Are old used digital cameras still good?


    Digital cameras are just like any electronic device. They can last a really long time, but they don’t last forever. How long they last is usually determined by how well they’re treated, but, there is more to it than that.

    Issues with old digital cameras

    Batteries

    One possible issue with older digital cameras is the batteries they use. Most old cameras use proprietary batteries that may not be in production anymore. If you can’t power your camera it doesn’t matter if it is in good condition or not, you’ll have to figure how to get it to turn on before you can use it.

    Media

    Some older cameras used obsolete media, such as Sony Memory Sticks, Mini Disks, Floppy Disks, VHS tape, Digital VHS tape, or even CD-ROMS. It might seem absurd to us today, but prior to the creation of SD cards, there were a number of cameras that used weird and potentially unavailable media. While a camera that uses a Floppy Disk is more of a collector’s item than a real camera these days, the point remains, there are some unusual old technologies that won’t be supported by a modern laptop or desktop computer without some effort on your part.

    If you can verify that the used camera you’re interested in uses a media type that you are able to work with, and you can verify that it has new batteries available for it so you can turn it on, then you can start looking at the condition and functionality of the camera.

    Condition

    Condition and functionality is the most complex part of assessing a used camera. People often sell cameras that have sat in a basement unused for 20 or more years and nobody remembers if it was ever a working camera. Even if you know that you can get batteries and media for it, you may not be able to test it out right then and there.

    Usually when something is brand new we can tell that it’s basically brand new because it has that “new car smell” so to speak. And that’s not just a fancy turn of phrase, smelling a camera or lens can give you a good idea of how nicely or poorly it has been treated. If a camera smells clean and fresh, it’s probably been kept in a clean and dry area for most of it’s life. If it has a strong, sharp plastic or glue smell, it could mean that the rubber or plastics are breaking down. And finally, if it has a strong musty or dusty smell that generally means it’s been sitting in a damp and dark place for a long time.

    The problem with dampness and electronics should be pretty obvious. Over time, the dampness will ruin the camera or lens if it is left sitting in those conditions long enough. Dampness and musty basements can eventually lead to mold growth inside the lens, damaging lens element coatings, and usually forming a thin film of fog or haze on the lens. It takes a lot to ruin these old lenses, but some people seem to be working hard on figuring out how to do that.

    I have quite a few lenses with small amounts of haze in the lens and they work great. As long as the haze isn’t too bad, it’s usually not noticeable, but when it does get bad, it can cause low contrast in bright light, or blooming around light sources. A professional might be able to clean them but they can be hard to locate.

    Front quarter view of EOS Rebel T6 with EF 18-55m lens

    Manual Lenses – The Panacea of Used Gear

    If you’re buying manual focus lenses the truth is there isn’t much that can go wrong that you wouldn’t be able to figure out in the first 15 minutes of having it to look at and test.

    Manual lenses can be easily adapted to just about any mirrorless camera, and once you get the hang of it, focusing with manual lenses is actually pretty easy, even for video work.

    Aside from looking inside the lens to make sure it is clean and clear, there’s honestly very little that can go substantially wrong with a manual lens over its lifetime. The biggest danger is going to be mishandling the lens by dropping it.

    As long as the lens is cared for and stored properly there’s no reason it won’t last for a lifetime or much longer.

    AF Lenses – Some Companies Still Support Old Gear

    Autofocus lenses are another story entirely. Technically speaking, just about any AF lens could be adapted to work on just about any other camera, but that requires lots of technical skill and reprogramming of computer chips. It’s not an easy task but it’s doable. The thing is, it’s a lot easier to just buy a new lens that works with the camera you’ve got.

    A few companies like Canon make it easier to adapt old EF lenses to their new RF camera platform. Simply by using an EF to RF adapter, just about any EF lens can be used with no issues on an RF camera. If all you’re really after is a lens with good AF performance then many EF lenses are great options if you’re on a budget or just want a lens with a different look. I have some old EF lenses and I like all of them.



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  • Why are your SD card transfers slow?

    Why are your SD card transfers slow?


    This article provides all the information about SD cards and USB card readers that you could possibly need. The reasons why things could be messed up with your data transfers are listed below. Please read each section carefully in order to make sure you understand exactly what is going on.

    #1 Your SD card is actually slow

    SD cards have been around awhile and because of that there is a chance you dug up an old card somewhere that is older and slower than any of your other cards. In this case there’s not a lot you can do, and since the SD card standard is really old, if you’ve been doing media stuff for awhile there’s every change in the world you have a slower card.

    The original SD cards don’t have any extra naming on them, it’s just “SD”. SD cards have been introduced according to size class, below are the different size classes currently offered:

    Maximum Capacity 2GB 32GB 2TB 128TB
    Date Introduced 1999 2006 2009 2018

    Size classes are a broad category for different SD card technologies that show what the maximum possible size is supported by each technology. Since 2018 most new cameras should support the largest size class for SD cards which is SDUC. These labels should be printed somewhere on your SD card, so, if you see SDHC which was introduced in 2006, you may have an older and slower SD card.

    The most important rating related to speed is the Bus Interface type. Look on your card to see if it has a UHS Bus Logo on it as shown in the chart below. If there is no logo your card is probably an older and slower technology. If your card one of the bus logos in the chart below, then you should get the associated Bus Speed. However, that doesn’t mean that you’ll get those speeds for bursts or sustained writes, although you should something in that range for bursts because there is obviously no point in supporting a faster bus speed if the memory in the card doesn’t support the bus speed.

    Bus Interface Bus Logo Bus Speed SD SDHC SDXC SDUC
    Default Speed 12.5 MB/s yes yes yes yes
    High Speed 25 MB/s yes yes yes yes
    UHS-I 50-104 MB/s no yes yes yes
    UHS-II 156-312 MB/s no yes yes yes
    UHS-III 312-624 MB/s no yes yes yes
    SD EXPRESS 985-3983 MB/s no yes yes yes

    Bus speed does not guarantee sustained writes. It guarantees that the card can write in a burst at up to that speed. For sustained writes you’ll need to refer to the following chart which is called the VIDEO SPEED CLASS.

    With the Video Speed Class, it’s purely about sustained writes specifically for something like recording video. Sustained writes tend to be a lot lower because these writes are limited by the flash memory in the SD card as opposed to the card’s bus.

    #2 you’re using an old USB port or an old USB hub

    Assuming you have determined that you have a relatively fast SD card to work with we can now move on to the next possible issue, your USB port or hub. From 1996 to 2014 there were 4 speed classes of USB introduced and they all used the same familiar rectangular USB plug known as a USB A connector. USB 3.2 introduced in 2017 uses only the new USB C type port. However, just having USB C does NOT guarantee USB 3.2 speeds! USB C is backwards compatible all the way to USB 2.0 so a USB C device could support any of the USB specifications from 2.0 all the way to the upcoming USB4… To try to state that as clearly as possible, USB 3.2 and USB4 ONLY support USB C, but USB C supports ALL USB versions going back to USB 2.0. Now, depending on the age of your computer you will probably be stuck with a USB port that is pretty slow. Here is a chart to help you make sense of that:

    Version USB 1.0 USB 1.1 USB 2.0 USB 3.0 USB 3.1 USB 3.2 USB 4
    Date Introduced 1996 1998 2001 2011 2014 2017 2019
    Maximum Transfer Speed 1.5 MB/s 1.5 MB/s 60 MB/s 625 MB/s 1,250 MB/s 2,500 MB/s 20GB/s – 120GB/s

    With USB 2.0 things are further confused by the fact that there were different speeds of connections possible with 60MB/s being the maximum but slower connections being very common due to device limitations. The point being that your USB 2.0 device could be running at USB 1.0 speeds depending on whether the device, such as your card reader or USB hub, actually supports USB 2.0 High Speed.

    There are two types of USB 3.1. USB 3.1 gen 1, and USB 3.1 gen 2. USB 3.1 gen 1 runs at the speeds shown above in the chart, but USB 3.1 gen 2 is a USB 3.2 speed protocol for USB 3.1 connectors. For instance, if you buy a USB A to USB C cable that says it is USB 3.1 gen 2 it will give you the USB 3.2 speeds.

    Using the above chart you can see that any and all computers made before 2011 had USB 2.0 at best, so if your laptop or desktop is from 2011 or earlier this could be your reason for slow transfers.

    The annoying thing is that even on new computers there are often still USB 2.0 ports. That is because many devices like a mouse and keyboard don’t need anything better than a USB 2.0 port. So, even though you might have a newer laptop a common theme I have seen is that a laptop might have 3 USB ports on it but 2 of them will be USB 2.0 and only 1 of them will be the newest USB 3.1 or USB 3.2 or whatever. If you are confused which one is which you can check your laptop case for a text label, try looking at the side or bottom of the laptop near the USB port in question, or you can also check your computer’s online user manual. If all else fails, try calling customer service.

    Another common issue is that if you use an old USB 2.0 hub with a new USB 3.1 port you will only get the USB 2.0 speeds. So, if you are using a hub and getting slow speeds, try plugging your card reader directly into your computer and see if that improves things at all.

    Of course the opposite is also true. If you plug a brand spanking new USB 3.2 hub into a USB 2.0 port, again, you only get the USB 2.0 speeds.

    If you want the full speed of the USB port the card, the card reader, the cable, the USB hub, and the USB port on your computer all have to support the same maximum speeds.

    Speaking of cables, this is yet another tricky situation with USB devices. Many companies are out there are selling non-standard cables, so watch out. As I said earlier USB C is backwards compatible with USB 2.0 and newer so just buying a USB C cable is no guarantee you will get the high speed transfers. You have to make sure that the USB cable you buy specifically supports the speeds you are trying to achieve.

    Usually, devices and cables that support these standards will sport the “SuperSpeed” logo as a sign that they’re officially rated to achieve those speeds.

    That just about covers the possibilities with USB devices and cables so on to the next possibility!

    #3 Your card reader is slow

    Card readers have to support all features of the USB connection and the SD card. You can’t just plug a UHS-III card into a card reader that only supports UHS-I. If you do that you will only get the UHS-I speeds at the most. The same is true for the USB support. If the reader only supports USB 3.0, you’ll be stuck with USB 3.0 speeds no matter what port you plug the card reader into.

    #4 Your computer HDD is slow

    That is because there are literally dozens of things you have to know about how computers work just to transfer data from a card to a computer HDD.

    Even if you have the fastest USB, the fastest USB cables, the fastest USB card reader, and the fastest CFExpress cards in the world, when all that data gets downloaded onto your computer it still has to be saved onto the HDD or SSD and if the storage device in your computer is slow guess what?? Your transfers will still be slow. The fact is that while a CFExpress card can manage about 1,700 MB/s read speeds and the USB 3.2 spec can support that, the fastest mechanical hard drives will generally write to disk at about 170 MB/s, or about 10 times slower than the fastest cards.

    In order to fix that problem, you have to get a faster SSD in your computer. Typically, that is going to be an NVME SSD. The good news is that as of the writing of this article 8TB SSD drives are currently available. So, using SSDs for media storage is finally possible.

    If you have an older laptop you may be limited to SATA 3, that interface is limited to 600 MB/s which is still fast enough for most transfers you might encounter. But, if you are trying to transfer terabytes of data from your cards 600 MB/s may not be fast enough. 600 MB/s works out to about 32 minutes to transfer 1TB if that helps you decide whether you need to buy a new NVME enabled laptop or desktop.

    IF you have a desktop computer with free PCIE slots you can purchase an NVME expansion card for your computer.

    #5 Transfers are still slow even though you know all of the above should be correct

    In the case that you have verified all of the above should be correct to enable high speed transfers to your computer, there are rare situations where your drivers are incorrect. Usually Windows will automatically install the correct drivers but sometimes things get messed up. You also could try reinstalling your operating system.

    Another unfortunate possibility is a hardware failure of some sort. A cable may be failing or a USB port may be failing on your computer. In those cases try another port, USB hub, or even another computer and see if you get different results. It may seem crazy, but I have had USB ports fail on my computer from overuse. They usually don’t stop working entirely. What I experienced is that the port would become intermittent during transfers, slowing down to just a few KB/s then speeding up for a few seconds before slowing down again.

    I have learned from experience that many of these USB related products have questionable performance characteristics either due to buggy chipsets or just being sold as something they are not. Don’t automatically take your cable and USB hub’s performance claims 100% at face value. Test them out on a system you know works properly. This is especially true if you went cheap and got one of those weird Amazon brands for a lot less money than seems normal (I speak from experience).

    If all else fails, call an expert and see if they can help you figure out where the issue may be.

    #6 SD cards aren’t fast enough for your needs

    The highest read speed for SD cards as of writing is 300MB/s. Future cards may be faster, or they may not. To get faster transfers to your PC you’ll need CFExpress Type B cards, or you can use an external recording device that uses CFExpress Type B or SSD (NVME) drives to save your video and photo data.

    Troubleshooting:

    Problem: Transfers start out fast then slow down.

    Answer 1: The computer HDD may be too slow to sustain a large file transfer.

    Answer 2: The USB port may be failing. One sign of a USB port failure is highly irregular transfer speeds or extremely slow transfer speeds that never get faster.

    Answer 3: The SD card, computer SSD, or USB port may be overheating due to excessive use or other problems.



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